Tag Archives: wide angle

Do You Like Sharks?

A grey reef shark sizing us up in Roatan

I grew up living near the Great Lakes. It was not until much later in life that I saw my first shark. The shop I was diving with at the time had told us to expect that we would see a shark or two on the dive. We did see a shark, but he took one look at us open circuit divers and swam the other way. Before his tail had completely disappeared into the distance, I thought well that wasn’t too bad. That sighting was over 20 years ago and since that time I’ve seen many varieties of sharks, but seeing a shark never gets old for me. And no, it is not because in my day job I’m a lawyer and I have enjoyed professional curtesy with the sharks in the water.

A nurse shark cruising over the soft corals

Before last year, I used to think oh there’s a nurse shark. Whoopi, a very docile animal.

Well, last year I was on a night dive where we knew nurse sharks would be feeding. In the briefing we were told to stay off the bottom which was only maybe 35 feet below. So we stayed in the mid-water about 15 feet off the bottom. I’m glad I stayed off the bottom. What I observed were a handful of nurse sharks pounding every hole in the reef looking for a sleeping fish to swallow. I have been in a cage and watched bull sharks go after fish bits that were tossed into the water near the cage. The bulls sharks were not that much different from the vigor with which the nurse sharks crashed the holes in the reef to find fish. The thing that startled me the most was the speed at which the many attacks were launched by the nurse sharks. Had Micheal Phelps been in one of the holes in the reef he would not have stood a chance of out swimming the nurse sharks.

Some close up scars on a handful of feeding bull sharks

In the murky water of the harbor where the shark cage was it was stunning how fast the bull sharks came at the cage and how careful I was at keeping everything well inside the cage.

Then there was the dive where we were watching and taking pictures of great hammerheads swim in water that the visibility was not great. After having visibility that was awesome a few days before, I began to feel very uncomfortable when I realized that a 12 foot hammerhead could swim up behind me while I was focused on a similar sized hammerhead in front of me and missed the one that was on my blind side. Glad my buddy was watching out for me.

Open wide
And visibility got worse from here.

Now don’t get me wrong, I don’t attribute some ill will to sharks. They just do what they have been doing for hundreds of millions of years. They are a top predator and they are just looking for a meal. They are intelligent predators and they are designed to move through the water far more efficiently than we are. And, they do an excellent job of cleaning off the the sick or otherwise unhealthy reef critters.

In your face

Of course as top predators, the existence of sharks in a particular dive site I always take as a good sign that the reef is healthy. That is, if the top predator is doing well then all of the fish and creatures that are on lower levels of the food chain must be in at least decent shape otherwise there would be little in the food chain to support the top predator.

Have you been to Thunder Dome?

Not far off the coast of West Caicos, which is part of Turks and Caicos, is a failed media idea that nevertheless still makes a very interesting dive site. Thunder dome was intended to be an underwater set for a television show that was based on what most scuba instructors would tell you is a fairly dangerous practice; i.e. mixing skin diving with compressed gas. The concept was that contestants would dive down 30 feet to a set which had a bubble system that spilled out pearls. The contestants would gather the pearls and when they needed more air they would go to a “mermaid” with a regulator connected to compressed gas, essentially a scuba system, would take a breath or two and continue collecting pearls. The object was to collect the most pearls and take the fewest hits of compressed gas and that contestant would win the most money. What could go wrong with that? Well, plenty. None of the contestants appear to have been trained scuba divers so presumably they had never heard the number one rule of scuba diving: Don’t hold your breath? Why—- because by breathing compressed gas and changing depth a person risks an over expansion injury; i.e. you could over expand your lungs so much they burst, among other serious injuries. Fortunately, while the production company did make a pilot or two, someone finally woke up to the risks of the project and killed the project. Nevertheless, the production company left the set for Thunder dome where it was in Turks and Caicos. The dome and other set pieces have made an interesting man made reef structure. Thirty years later, the set makes a very interesting site for certified divers.

habitat for fish

While I was exploring the set on scuba, did I look for pearls, yes, but not so much. I figured they would be hard to find and after 30 years had probably been pretty picked over. But there was still plenty to see because in the last thirty years quite a few sponges and corals had claimed the set as their new home.

grunts looking for pearls?

Although Thunder Dome was a failure as a television show, it nonetheless does make for a very interesting dive site to explore. So if you get to Turks and Caicos Thunder Dome is definitely a worthwhile site to dive.

Is it better than scraps?

Sometimes when we are diving we find things that catch our eyes but yet, the conditions are less than ideal. Other times we go on a trip where we expect to see one or more particular animals, yet they just don’t show up. Is the thrill of getting to see one or more rare or unusual animals what keeps us diving? Maybe, but there is probably more to it than that.

About seven years ago I had a trip planned that would allow me to go to a location that has a high probability of seeing manatees. With my usual luck it snowed so hard that the flights would not go from Dallas to Florida so that trip like many of late, wound up on the scrape heap.

This year we traveled to Placentia Belize and while it is unusual to see manatees in Belize it is at least possible. We had been sailing for a week and had not seen any manatees. Now we had seen quite a bit of wildlife, but we had not found a single manatee even though we had been in some relatively good environmental conditions to spot them. We saw dolphins. We saw turtles.

And sometimes we could get pretty close to the animals.

We saw sharks.

We saw quite good variety of tropical fish and other marine life.

But no manatees. I had all but given up hope of spotting any. We got to the last day of sailing and cruised into a small island. The water visibility was pretty poor. I think I was the only one to get into the water to snorkel. We had long since burned up all of our air tanks so I was relegated to snorkeling. I took my underwater camera and left the strobes off because I figured they would just light up all the particulate in the water. I had been in the water over an hour and had seen a few interesting critters, but nothing particularly interesting. I think I had taken maybe 3 or 4 shots with the rest of time just looking for anything interesting. The reef went pretty much up to the shoreline and I had started from the boat and I swam more or less towards the island. There were a couple of small dogs on shore that would periodically bark at me. I guess they just wanted to let me know they were there. I had swum the length of the island (it was small) when the reef pretty much petered out and I found myself over mostly turtle grass. There wasn’t even any self respecting turtle grazing on the turtle grass. I was about to turn around and head to the boat when I saw movement in the water. It was maybe 25 meters away so I swam toward it. As I swam the water got murkier and murkier. And after a few seconds it occurred to me what I was looking at through the murk…

Yep, it was that long hoped for manatee. So I kicked hard to try to get closer. Unfortunately, he heard me. With a tail flip or two he was out of range.

Oh well, I guess I will have to find another one….

Thankfully 2020 is almost over

Well 2020 has been a tough year in so many ways. Lock downs, quarantines and more. But the forced pause has made me remember that I am thankful for so many people and relationships in my life. So hopefully in 2021 we will get to travel, get to see friends and family, and get to go diving in all of the places we missed in 2020.

I’ve been told by people who have been back in the water that some of the sea creatures that we have not seen for a while have made a comeback because of the lack of presence by people. Well I hope that is right because then there is hope that the sea can make a recovery over time.

So my hope is that when we get to go back to diving in the deep blue sea that we all see and appreciate the wonderful sea life that is there.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Reflections on the RMS Rhône wreck

The RMS Rhône dive is an iconic dive. It has a lot of history. It has an interesting story, and for a wreck that has been down for over 150 years it still has quite a bit of structure to see and photograph.

The first time I dove the Rhône, the weather was poor and getting in and out of the dingy was a real challenge. But once we got down below 15 feet the water was clear and the wreck was a lot of fun to explore. The wheel house was still intact and it still had a world class lobster living in it. Between 2010 and 2018 a hurricane went through BVI and damaged the wheelhouse and made it unsafe to enter, and did further damage to the rest of the remains of the wreck.

The last time I dove the Rhône, we had pretty good weather but the visibility was not quite as good, but still at least in the 80 foot range.

Part of the remains of the structure of the wreck

The remains of the wheelhouse, are not safe to go inside of today, but there are more schools of fish around the wreck site because no fishing was allowed in 2018.

Twisted ribs of the Rhone

If you were wondering how powerful the hurricane was that hit BVI, consider this this part of the Rhone was in about 90 feet of water. Twist iron ribs in 90 feet of water, that seems to me to be a lot of force.

The remnants of the checker board flooring with red rope sponges.

Grunts and snappers swimming around the condenser.

I’m hopeful to get back to the Rhone wreck again in 2022. If I could get enough dives on the wreck, I might even consider doing one of the dives as a macro dive because there do appear to be quite a few small critter that have taken up residence.

Thoughts about Big Animals

A humpback whale in Tonga

Don’t get me wrong, I can be quite happy looking for subjects to shoot in a tide pool. The little fish, crabs and shrimp can keep me entertained for hours. But there is something about seeing large animals in their natural environment and being in the water with them that just holds my attention. Big animals often are a big gamble. They don’t always show up when and where we are expecting. Take the first day of our trip to Tonga. After getting bounced around in an aluminum hull boat for about 6 hours in six to ten foot swells we found a momma whale and her calf. We tried to get in the water with her quickly only to see her head the other way and make it pretty hard for us to get close. Of course it was interesting to see the animals in the water, it sure would have been nice to see them for a bit longer. Of course, day three was much better, but there were a lot of hours of hurry up and wait. As you might guess patience is not one of my virtues.

Manta rays off the coast of Kona

I would say that the Manta’s in Kona were very punctual at least on the day we were there. Thirteen big animals in one place during a dive is pretty special. They were almost like a well choreographed ballet swimming through the dive site. I guess I was pretty wound up at the time because one of the mantas bumped me as I was swimming back to the boat and I did not even realize it. But there was video of it; I guess i should have gotten a copy.

Tiger sharks in Fiji

If you feed them they will come. Well, seeing three 13 foot to 16 foot tiger sharks is pretty interesting. Add food into the equation and it does seem to assure that the sharks will show up. The challenge is how do you keep enough control so it is safe. Well, 4 foot aluminum hooks help, but so does a lot of local experience. I still have mixed emotions about feeding sharks. Feed them and you are teaching them to expect food from divers. Don’t feed them and you are unlikely to see them. But I digress. Having a mature tiger shark swim within 6 inches of your underwater camera will get your heart pumping and your breathing rate up a bit. Just glad all went well while we were there.

Have you been diving on the Lesleen M?

Turtle on Deck
Turtle on deck

My grandfather used to say quite often “Sonny using the right tool for the job makes all the difference.” My grandfather was a very skilled repairman who could take almost any mechanical device apart and repair it, most of the time without any schematics, diagrams or other description of the devise. When he took something apart he was very systematic. When he was done dissembling a device it looked like an engineer’s exploded schematic of the device. Of course for him the device went back together with no left over parts and almost always worked better than when he found it. Coming from my grandfather, advice about using the right tool for the project had significant meaning to me.

On the other hand, some of my family members motto has been adapt and change to meet the situation. Or if you don’t have the right tool for the job, improvise.

So I guess it is somewhat telling that one of my reoccurring nightmares is going on a trip to take pictures of whales underwater and discovering the camera rig is set up for macro or worse yet super macro. How many pictures of a whale’s eye do you need or want?

The same thought applies to ship wrecks. When I think about shooting a ship wreck I am thinking about what is the environment like where the wreck is located?

Papa doc with diver — Freeport Bahamas

Is the reef near the wreck, is the reef interesting? Has the wreck begun to grow over the wreck?

The tugboat with encrusting corals — Curacao

In preparing for a recent trip to St. Lucia I had looked on the internet to see what the most important wreck off the coast of St. Lucia was. I found some reasonably helpful information about the Lesleen M which pointed out that the Lesleen M Wreck is an old cargo ship that was sunk in 1986. The resulting artificial reef is home to numerous species of coral and aquatic life. The Lesleen M Wreck lies evenly on its keel. The wreck is approximately 165 feet long and rests at a depth of at a depth of 60 feet. From inside the engine room of the Lesleen M Wreck, there is a ladder that takes you into the cabins of the main deck. I think that is a reasonable good description of what I saw when I dove the Lesleen M.

But wouldn’t you know the day I dove the Lesleen M instead of having my wide angle lens, I had a 105 mm macro lens. So how did I adapt and adjust? I had no choice but to shoot macro. Here are few macro shots I took.

green moray in your face
Green moray in your face, Lesleen M St. Lucia

And there were a few other interesting shots…

queen angel fish on the wreck
Queen angel fish on the wreck of the Lesleen M

But alas, no pictures of what I would call an underwater wreck. I guess I will have to go back.