Category Archives: Bahamas

Have you ever been to the feeding of the Hammerhead Sharks in Bimini?

Lunch is served

During a few months a year, primarily from December to March, it is possible to see great hammerhead sharks in Bimini. Sure I had taken pictures of sharks underwater before, but never hammerhead sharks.

In my preparation for the trip, it looked to me like the likelyhood of getting a picture of a great hammerhead without going on a dive where the sharks were being fed, was a very low probability. You have to ask: “What self respecting apex predator would want to be around a bunch of noisy open circuit divers?” The answer it seemed to me was a very old decrepit deaf hammerhead and then that would probably be a fluke. So that meant in all probability I would have to be on a dive where the shop feed the hammerheads in order to get them to come in close enough to photograph. That determination, limited the shops that I could dive with to one in Bimini. As sometimes happens, one of my friends Michelle, with DXDivers was running a trip out to Bimini to dive at the Big Game Club with Neal Watson’s shop. So I signed up for the trip and talked David, one of my dive buddies into joining me.

So, before my trip I started by looking at images that had been taken in Bimini. What I noticed was that where available the camera settings reflected the images had been shot on 16mm fish eye lenses. Having shot a 16mm lens for several years it occurred to me that it is a great lens if you can get close to the subject, but not so great if you could not get reasonably close. It also occurred to me that it was probably a bad idea to swim towards a shark that was feeding.

A few years ago I had added to my lens collection a 16-35 f4 zoom lens. The optical characterisitics of the lens I think are quite impressive because it renders a good rectilinear image as long as there is a good amount of light. I had shot the lens behind a 9 inch Zen dome and the optical characteristics were quite good. Given that I thought there was a pretty good chance that the sharks might be a ways away from me when peak action occurred, I opted to bring along the 16-35mm lens and the Zen dome. Now the down side of the Zen dome is that it’s enormous, and weighs several pounds. It also requires a substantial extension tube. My camera rig without the Zen dome weighs in at about 35 pounds. The Zen dome with extension tube adds another 3 pounds or so but also changes substantially the buoyancy characteristics of my rig. And it takes up about almost a third of my dive bag. So now I had to think about what portion of my usual gear was I going to leave home?

In general the images that my review founds that I liked had been shot on full fame DSLR cameras. The ISO’s had been set at between 100 and 400. The fstops used had been between f7 and f14. I also noted that the shutter speed tended to be in the range of 1/200th to 1/250th of a second. The vast majority of the images appeared to have been shot with flash, although for most of the images I could not determine what flash unit or units had been used.

What I could not tell from the images that I reviewed was the relative depth that the shots were taken, but I could see that most were taken where the sharks were swimming over the white sand that is common in the Bahamas. My guess was that the water depth was about 30 feet. As it turned out my guess was pretty close, 26 feet on one dive and 24 on the other.

I next considered strategies for getting sharp focus of the hammerheads as they came in to feed. What I have noticed from other efforts at “shooting sharks” was that they are fast for underwater animals, and their movements seemed to me to be somewhat unpredictable. So It seemed to me that what I wanted to do was be able to use was three D tracking and to try to get focus on the eye as best I could. With some sharks I had noticed it was hard just keeping them in the frame if they were moving quickly. As one of my friends video demonstrates hammerheads are very fast in the water. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZ5mYuFAt5y/?utm_medium=copy_link

It also occurred to me that continuous focus mode might help, but the limiting factor was that underwater strobes only recycle so fast. To try to help save the strobes, I used a relatively low manual strobe power so that if I shot more than one image at a time there was at least some hope that the strobe would fire a second and maybe a third time before recycling.

I also decided I would take a somewhat different approach to shooting the sharks. In most of the images I saw the angle of the shot placed the shark alone over the sand, with few if any divers in any shot. It seemed to me that the reality was that because the sharks were coming in to be fed there were divers who should be included in the shot along with the feeder.

Coming at you

It wasn’t until I was mid-way through the first dive that it occurred to me that the story really was the interaction between the feeders and the sharks. No it is not ballet, nor is it a bull fight because hopefully everyone goes home with the same number of bits that they came to the feed with. Instead, it is a delicate effort to respect the sharks while at the same time demonstrate the pure power and strength that the Hammerheads have that have allowed them to survive millions of years as apex predators.

Surely you are not going to miss that fish treat?

Walking the shark after lunch
Open wide
You had your treat now carry on

So were the actual dives somewhat like what I expected? I would say so, but like vacations, you still have to go and see for yourself in order to enjoy them.

Do you have a favorite undersea animal?

I will admit that I have been a fan of shark week for as long as it has been on the Discovery channel. Sharks are smart. They have an incredible array of tools for finding prey. They have been on the planet for hundreds of millions of years and they have evolved to fit into many different sub-environments. For many years when I was asked what my favorite animal in the sea was, I typically would respond sharks.

This is why you wear the steel suit
This is why you wear the steel suit

Of course when I was growing up, sharks didn’t always have the best reputation. Flipper, who I watched a lot as a kid, always prevailed over any sharks that strayed into the story line of the show. Don’t get me wrong, I liked Flipper and have always been fascinated by dolphins who also seem to have awesome skills as predators. I have always found big undersea creatures to be interesting. They are necessary to ensure the health of a reef. They typically go very fast through the water.

But, sharks and dolphins share at least one trait, their relative amount of color is pretty limited. Grey and white and tan are excellent colors if you want to blend into the reef. But there are so many other colors that exist on coral reefs that I may have to change my thinking about what my favorite undersea animal is.

Eye of a peacock flounder
Eye of a peacock flounder
Nudibranchs
Never enough time

Have you been diving in the Exumas Cayes in the Bahamas?

Farmers Caye in the morning
Farmers Caye in the morning

The Exhumas are a group of islands that are part of the Bahamas that begin about 30 miles of the southeaster tip of New Providence island where Nassau is located.  The Exhumas are a beautiful chain of coral islands.  On one side is the Atlantic Ocean, on the other side is the Gulf.  On the Gulf side it is easy to sail in 20+knot winds and the water is still relatively calm.  On the Atlantic side, with the same winds whip up the seas and it is easy to have 5-6 foot swells.  

By staying on the gulf side of the islands, we managed to move relatively effortlessly without getting beat to a pulp by the seas.  The diving on the gulf side, well it was relatively shallow,  but the sea life was relatively diverse.  

red tipped sea goddess nudibranch

Red tipped sea goddess nudibranch, of course shows up while I have a wide angle set up on the camera. 

The creatures also included a rather large slipper lobster, who I thought was as large as I had ever seen. 

slipper lobster
slipper lobster

For diving, it was important to be at the dive site ready to dive either on slack high or slack low tide.  Most sites are near the channels between the islands.  if you try to dive the sites without being on slack tide you are going to be doing a serious drift dive with currents ranging from 2-5 knots. Given that we were not particularly well set up for drift dives it meant that we had to time our dives well to be on slack water.  Of course in between we were able snorkel and saw eagle rays, green sea turtles and even swimming pigs and native iguanas. 

Most days early morning and sunsets were spectacular. 

sun rise Farmers Caye
sun rise Farmers Caye

Hurray it’s shark week again

Grey reef shark
Grey reef shark swimming overhead

In my opinion, apex predators are very interesting.  From what I have observed they are curious and will investigate what they think might be food.  If there is food in the water they will take an easy meal.  

This is why you wear the suit-
This is why you wear the suit

Sharks unlike people do not have hands which might otherwise allow them to tactically check out potential meals.   So what do they do, they taste potential entres with their mouths.  Now that might seem bad, it can have a bad effect on anyone the shark chooses to sample.  

Grey reef shark at shark junction
Grey reef shark at shark junction

So I keep thinking they sure are interesting but I ill try to avoid becoming a meal,  

 

In search of small things

Much of my time spent doing underwater photography has been spent shooting through a wide angle lens, which allows me to capture some of the grandeur of what can be found underwater.  Shipwrecks, large reef structures, sharks, and substantial schools of fish have been interesting to me.   It has only been in the last few years that I have begun to start making images of smaller creatures found in the ocean.  

wire coral shrimp
wire coral shrimp

The thing that strikes me about the creatures in the ocean is the extraordinary diversity among the animals.  

For example, one of the animals that I have observed during my diving career is wire coral.  Wire coral like other coral is composed of colonies of polyps which live in a colony to form the length of the coral.   To me wire coral looks like a curly strand of coral, similar to a pigs tail, only much longer.  Generally wire coral is only found on deeper dives.  It was not until I stopped and looked at the length of several wire coral strands that I notice there were sometimes shrimp that were less than a couple centimeters in length living on the wire coral.  I started looking at all of the wire corals I could find, and  only in a small number of wire corals did I find any shrimp.  Put it this way, I have never found a “herd” of wire coral shrimp on a single strand of wire coral.  

Wire coral shrimp are tough little guys to take a picture of.   Think of it this way, wire coral is often a centimeter or less in diameter.  So getting the camera lens to focus on a spot that is that narrow is not easy, especially in current.  Add to the complexity the fact that you have to put quite a bit of light on the shrimp just to try to acquire focus on them.  And, of course, the shrimp don’t particularly like my focus light so they tend to move all over the wire coral, which makes taking a picture of them even more difficult.  In the image above one of my dive buddies had to use the tip of a chop stick to block the shrimp from scurrying aware from my focus light.  

When I have searched wire corals, which are often 6 to 10 feet in length, it is pretty uncommon to find even one shrimp on the entire length of the coral.   On my last dive trip we did about twenty dives.  I did not find more than a couple dozen wire corals.  And, only on two wire corals did I find even one shrimp.    And people say that hitting a major league fast ball is hard.  At least the batters know where the plate is and the plate is more than a hundred times larger.  What if baseball allowed the opposite team to move home plate around the ball park randomly?  That is what trying to shoot wire coral shrimp is like.  I keep telling my self patience is a virtue…

On the other hand, sometimes sea critters act as if they are just walking out on stage waiting for some one to take a picture of them.  

white spotted shrimp on red rope sponge
white spotted shrimp on red rope sponge

This white spotted shrimp was for much of the time I observed him hiding in the arms of the giant sea anemone which he claimed as his home.  But, much to my surprise he eventually jumped from the anemone to the red sponge which made it possible for me to acquire focus for the picture.  Sometimes patience is a virtue….

Have you seen the Sea Star after the hurricane?

sea star wreck with railng
Sea Star wreck with railing and sun ball
The last time I dove on the wreck known as the Sea Star off the coast of Grand Bahama, the ship was intact and it was relatively easy to circumnavigate around the exterior of the ship.  The ship may have had a small list to one side but it seemed to be otherwise upright and easy to tell that it was formerly a ship.  

In December 2016 a hurricane went through Grand Bahama and did quite a bit of damage on the island, but also changed several of the dive sites that are just off shore from the island.  The Sea Star went from looking like a ship to being torn in about half and left in the shape of an “L”.  It certainly opened up the cargo hold.  

And, while many parts of the ship were almost unrecognizable, towards what was the stern of the ship there were still parts that looked similar to what we had seen of the stern in our previous visit.  And, some of the sponge life was undisturbed by the storm.

 

The new “foot print” of the Sea Star does give some interesting views that previously either didn’t exist or were not as recognizable.  

It will be interesting to see if the sea life that previously grew on the Sea Star re-establishes itself in the coming years.  

Turtles

 

Some days I think about all the types of certain critters I have seen and then think that I will probably not see something new on the next trip.  It sure is nice to be wrong.  During the last trip to Grand Bahama it was awesome to see a loggerhead turtle up close. 

I had only seen a loggerhead turtle one other time and that was from a boat deck.  The last time I saw one it was only for a brief second because he popped his head up only a few meters ahead of our catamaran and then ducked down again as he saw we were sailing right towards him.  I don’t think I have ever seen a turtle move so fast.  Now he was never in danger because he would have passed between the two pontoons of the boat without any problem.  Nevertheless, because I was close to the front of the boat I could see just how enormous he was.  Most turtles I have seen have been maybe a few feet across the bottom of their shell.  The fellow who swam under the boat was easily 2 meets across the bottom of his shell.  If I had to guess he must have weighed several hundred pounds.  

The loggerhead turtle I saw in the Bahamas raced through the dive site, right past a bunch of divers.  He was huge — well over 500 pounds. 

At first I did not see any reason for why this turtle seemed quite determined to “motor” through the site.  It was only after I took the first shot that I saw why.   Maybe having a grey reef shark following you is no big deal for a turtle that weighs several hundred pounds.  

But then again, maybe having a large shark following you is just an annoyance.  I really don’t know, but even if I had a hard shell, I don’t think I would mess around with those teeth.  So maybe swimming through the circle of divers was the idea after all.  We were the bait. 

 

Oh yeah, the turtle took a right angle after passing me, and the shark just kept swimming straight.  Who says turtles are slow.  

Mixed emotions about storms

Underwater Librarian

Yes I understand that storms that go through dive sites are just part of the natural process that exists.   But, I sometimes have mixed emotions when I see just how powerful some storms are and the damage they do.  

Recently I dove a site off Grand Bahama that I dove a couple of years ago called the Chamber.   The chamber is an old recompression chamber that was sunk after it failed inspection. I wrote about the dive a couple of years ago particularly  since it was close to shark junction which is one of my favorite sites because of all the grey reef sharks.  

The last time I saw the chamber it was sitting on the side of the site that was closest to shore.   This time it was on the opposite side of the site.  I am told that the chamber was found after the storm about a half mile away from where it had been originally.  The dive shop Unesco used lift bags to pick up the chamber and move it back on to the site it had been on before.  The chamber is probably close to 20 feet long and 6 to 8 feet across.  I couldn’t guess how much it weighs  but we would be talking about tonnage not pounds or kilograms.  

The chamber after the storm
The chamber was moved over half mile from its prior position by the December 2016 hurricane

To me it is hard to imagine moving such an object, let alone moving it hundreds of meters underwater.  

The more interesting changes occurred with what is often referred to as the Papa Doc wreck.  Two years ago the hull of the wreck was still pretty much intact and even at the stern you could see places where fish hid inside crawl spaces in the hull. 

gray angel fish and papa doc wreck
Gray angel fish swimming off the stern of the Papa doc wreck

Now the sea life that was growing on the wreck looks like it had been sand blasted off the wreck and the stern of the ship is largely demolished.  

papa doc stern
papa doc stern

Not surprisingly, even the wheel house took a pretty good beating.   

Wheel house of the papa doc wreck
Wheel house of the papa doc wreck

The sand surrounding the wreck is probably two feet deeper than before the storm.   So I can only imaging what the swirl of sand must have looked like when the hurricane came through in December 2016.  

Shark feeding at Shark Junction, Grand Bahamas

 

Grey reef shark at shark junction
Grey reef shark at shark junction

Not long ago I had an opportunity to do a shark dive off the coast of Grand Bahama. 

Our shark wrangler-shark feeder was Olivier.  Olivier explained that on the dive we would drop to the bottom about 45 feet below the boat.   We would line up with our backs to the Pretender wreck. Apparently the Pretender wreck got its name because there is so little left of the wreck that is just pretends to be a wreck.

Inasmuch I had the “big camera” they wanted me on the end of the line.   Olivier explained that he would work his way across the bottom in front of our line and would start feeding at the other end of the line of eight divers.   I thought that would be good since it would give me extra time to make sure I had selected the best combination of depth of field and shutter speed that I could use under the existing conditions.  Inasmuch as I figured the Sharks would stir up the sand on the bottom, I decided to shoot natural light, but had my video light to throw a little extra light if I needed it.  

We had a partly cloudy day with intermittent times when the sun would be exposed and throw a substantial amount of light on the white sandy bottom of the dive site.  We would be kneeling during the shark feed. 

getting ready for the feed

Olivier explained that he would feed for a while, but then would try to put a shark to sleep and then would allow us to each feel the skin of the shark.   He would then massage the shark some more and if the shark was malleable he would be able to lift the shark into a shark stand and then let the shark go. 

After Olivier finished briefing the dive he began to put on the chain mail suit which he would use as protection from any shark that might otherwise try to bit him.  The chain mail suit reminded me of something you might see on a knight in medieval times.  The suit covered him from head to foot and included gloves and boots.  All told the suit weighted 25 pound.  Olivier said jumping into the water with the suit on was like jumping into the water with a boat anchor attached. 

This is why you wear the suit-
This is why you wear the suit-

Between the suit and the container of fish, Olivier would make a quick drop through the water column to the white sand bottom below. The regulators that would provide air to Olivier during the dive were wrapped in what looked like electrical conduit so that Olivier’s air supply was somewhat protected from an inadvertent shark bite.  The BC he was wearing was similar to most BCs but did carry a number of scars from where it had been bitten.    While Olivier was gearing up, Shelly the official video-grapher was putting on her chain mail suit and getting ready for the jump. 

The Sharks that were expected to show up for the meal were gray reef Sharks.  What we saw were about 20- 25 Grey reef sharks and a couple of nurse sharks that converged on the dive site. Olivier had warned us that if any great hammer head sharks showed up, he would call the dive and the dive would be over and he would not continue to feed the Sharks.  He explained that a great hammer head shark could make short work of his suit and would be far more to deal with than we would want to do. 

Olivier said normally once the feeding was done, he would walk away from the group and the group could search the sand for any shark teeth that had fallen out during the dive. 

Before we started the dive, Olivier asked if I would mind taking a few stills of him for his personal collection. He said that after the feed was over when he walked away from the group, I could follow along behind him at a safe distance to take some shots of him feeding the Sharks away from the site.  I said sure that sounds like an interesting challenge.  Besides I figured I had the benefit of professional curtsy so why worry. 

Olivier done feeding-
Olivier done feeding-

The guests all geared up and then after the safety divers were in the water we began to drop to the bottom towards the pretender wreck.  The Sharks had already begun to congregate in expectation of a meal.  They tended to circle in a clockwise circle.   As I headed towards the bottom, I started shooting.  I figured that I needed to know if the shutter speed and aperture settings I had selected were going to work.  I checked the camera display and the settings seemed to be a bit bright when the sun was out, but fine when the sun went behind a cloud.  I decided to leave everything as I had set it.   

As the divers settled towards the bottom, we lined up in a line on our knees in front of the Pretender Wreck.  Not long after the last diver was lined up, Olivier appeared from behind a large coral head.  It was no surprise to see him because just before he landed on the bottom the 20+ Sharks whom we had been watching changed their course to get closer to Oliver near the other coral head.  I can only imagine that Olivier’s BC was struggling to keep him off the bottom based on the weight of the suit and the feeding container.  It was not Olivier’s usual perfect body position in the water, but he made it work to move the 20 or so yards over to the pretender wreck.  Shelly was right behind him taking video as Olivier made his way over.  While they were trying to get into place, the Sharks continued to circle.  Now instead of one or two at a time they were stacked up 3 or 4 abreast swimming through the site.  Oliver began feeding the Sharks. 

The action was fast and furious.  At times Olivier would disappear in what looked like a shark vortex.  Among the Sharks, there were horse eyed jacks and some yellow tailed snappers.  All were looking for a free meal.  Only the Sharks were big enough to muscle their way into the vortex to try to get in line for food. 

 

shark anado
Yes he is in the scrum somewhere!

After a while Oliver selected a smaller shark, maybe only 5 feet in length to try to put to sleep.  He was successful and brought the shark around to the divers so anyone who wanted to feel shark shin could.  I kept shooting.   

Shark stand-
Shark stand-

After the main feed was over, I followed Olivier over towards the other coral head.  I thought I was relatively far away, but Shelly made sure I stayed a bit farther back.  Probably a good thing, since I was the only one in the frame without a chain mail suit.  The action continued to be fast.  At one point I had to stop shooting because the memory card had slowed down because there were too many shots stacked on top of one another to load to the card.  I paused and let the memory card catch up and then started shooting again.  What a blast.  For someone who likes fast action, this was definitely fast.  I kept watching and seeing different shots to take.  In an ordinary dive of an hour or so, I take maybe 60 to 70 shots which usually gives my strobes a huge work out.  On this dive without using strobes I shot a total of 320 stills and 10 video clips.  Would I do it again – of course.  Now I just need to figure out when. 

Grey reef shark at shark junction

This is why you wear the steel suit

Nassau Bahamas, wreck diving and shark diving, what’s not to like?

I was thinking about the dives we did in Nassau and it occurred to me that it was some of the most diverse, and productive diving I have had a chance to do. Day 1 we spent a fair amount of time diving with gray reef sharks. Even before the feeding began the sharks were remarkably cooperative in positioning themselves so that they made interesting models.

Grey reef shark
Grey reef shark swimming overhead

The first day we did two shark divers at shark junction with the Stuart Cove dive shop. Dive one was pretty mellow and while there were quite a few sharks, the 18 divers on the boat never got particularly close to the sharks since they were curious, but at best aloof. The second dive was a shark feed and it was interesting to watch the sharks come in and be fed. There was quite a bit of bumping and jostling for position by the sharks. The divers were all pretty well out of the line of swimming, except for the shark feeder and the photographers who had chain mail suits.

Here is a brief video from the shark feed.

And did I mention the wrecks? There are lots of them and many of them have appeared in one or more movies.
And some of the wrecks are just interesting because their structure has an amazing amount of growth that has accumulated on them.

Do divers have an obligation to help conserve the environment?

A 200 plus pound Black Grouper at Shark Junction
A 200 plus pound Black Grouper at Shark Junction in the Bahamas

I used to think of the ocean as endless and its fish life as unaffected by people.  I was wrong on both counts.  Yes, over 70% of the earth is covered in water.  Yes, if you were to take the average depth of the ocean and take out the lows and the highs the average depth would be over 4,000 feet deep, or at least so I have read.

But, the ocean that can be explored by recreational divers is only 130 feet deep.  And, within that depth in many places, fisherman have and are over fishing many species. Many variety of grouper, such as black grouper are becoming much rarer to see in large part because they do taste good.  For the most part I have stopped eating grouper because of the pressure on them.  Other species of fish are also being fished to extinction.

Isn’t it odd, that lion fish, an invasive species in the Caribbean are thriving and doing so at the expense of native fish such as the parrot fish who is necessary to reefs in order to keep algae at bay.

Are you the scourge of the Caribbean?
Are you the scourge of the Caribbean?

So I will continue to eat lion fish, in hopes that someone will figure out how to eradicate them from the Caribbean, and avoid grouper in hopes that they will make a recovery.  And, I will continue to bring up trash when I see it in the ocean in hopes that by removing it some small part of the wild life that remains in the sea will be there the next time I return.  Its an enormous task in reality.  I hope you will join me in my small little effort to save the sea.

Do you ever grow tired of seeing turtles underwater? nah

I am not sure what it is about turtles that always fascinates me when I am diving. Sometimes it strikes me that turtles remind me of grumpy old men swimming under water. I guess I can relate to that. Other times I am amazed at just how quickly they can swim and leave me in the dust, even when I am wearing fins.

Some dives are just magical

Over the years, I have seen hawksbill turtles, green sea turtles, Ridley’s turtles and even a leather back turtle.  I was amazed when we were sailing to see an enormous leather back turtle surface directly in front of our catamaran.  I had no idea that a turtle that probably weighed half a ton could immediately dive down with seemingly very little effort and at a speed that took it out of the center of our catamaran.

 

I especially like to see sunlight reflected off the shells of green sea turtles because their shells reflect so many colors. So here is to the turtle, I tip my hat so to speak.