During a few months a year, primarily from December to March, it is possible to see great hammerhead sharks in Bimini. Sure I had taken pictures of sharks underwater before, but never hammerhead sharks.
In my preparation for the trip, it looked to me like the likelyhood of getting a picture of a great hammerhead without going on a dive where the sharks were being fed, was a very low probability. You have to ask: “What self respecting apex predator would want to be around a bunch of noisy open circuit divers?” The answer it seemed to me was a very old decrepit deaf hammerhead and then that would probably be a fluke. So that meant in all probability I would have to be on a dive where the shop feed the hammerheads in order to get them to come in close enough to photograph. That determination, limited the shops that I could dive with to one in Bimini. As sometimes happens, one of my friends Michelle, with DXDivers was running a trip out to Bimini to dive at the Big Game Club with Neal Watson’s shop. So I signed up for the trip and talked David, one of my dive buddies into joining me.
So, before my trip I started by looking at images that had been taken in Bimini. What I noticed was that where available the camera settings reflected the images had been shot on 16mm fish eye lenses. Having shot a 16mm lens for several years it occurred to me that it is a great lens if you can get close to the subject, but not so great if you could not get reasonably close. It also occurred to me that it was probably a bad idea to swim towards a shark that was feeding.
A few years ago I had added to my lens collection a 16-35 f4 zoom lens. The optical characterisitics of the lens I think are quite impressive because it renders a good rectilinear image as long as there is a good amount of light. I had shot the lens behind a 9 inch Zen dome and the optical characteristics were quite good. Given that I thought there was a pretty good chance that the sharks might be a ways away from me when peak action occurred, I opted to bring along the 16-35mm lens and the Zen dome. Now the down side of the Zen dome is that it’s enormous, and weighs several pounds. It also requires a substantial extension tube. My camera rig without the Zen dome weighs in at about 35 pounds. The Zen dome with extension tube adds another 3 pounds or so but also changes substantially the buoyancy characteristics of my rig. And it takes up about almost a third of my dive bag. So now I had to think about what portion of my usual gear was I going to leave home?
In general the images that my review founds that I liked had been shot on full fame DSLR cameras. The ISO’s had been set at between 100 and 400. The fstops used had been between f7 and f14. I also noted that the shutter speed tended to be in the range of 1/200th to 1/250th of a second. The vast majority of the images appeared to have been shot with flash, although for most of the images I could not determine what flash unit or units had been used.
What I could not tell from the images that I reviewed was the relative depth that the shots were taken, but I could see that most were taken where the sharks were swimming over the white sand that is common in the Bahamas. My guess was that the water depth was about 30 feet. As it turned out my guess was pretty close, 26 feet on one dive and 24 on the other.
I next considered strategies for getting sharp focus of the hammerheads as they came in to feed. What I have noticed from other efforts at “shooting sharks” was that they are fast for underwater animals, and their movements seemed to me to be somewhat unpredictable. So It seemed to me that what I wanted to do was be able to use was three D tracking and to try to get focus on the eye as best I could. With some sharks I had noticed it was hard just keeping them in the frame if they were moving quickly. As one of my friends video demonstrates hammerheads are very fast in the water. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZ5mYuFAt5y/?utm_medium=copy_link
It also occurred to me that continuous focus mode might help, but the limiting factor was that underwater strobes only recycle so fast. To try to help save the strobes, I used a relatively low manual strobe power so that if I shot more than one image at a time there was at least some hope that the strobe would fire a second and maybe a third time before recycling.
I also decided I would take a somewhat different approach to shooting the sharks. In most of the images I saw the angle of the shot placed the shark alone over the sand, with few if any divers in any shot. It seemed to me that the reality was that because the sharks were coming in to be fed there were divers who should be included in the shot along with the feeder.
Coming at you
It wasn’t until I was mid-way through the first dive that it occurred to me that the story really was the interaction between the feeders and the sharks. No it is not ballet, nor is it a bull fight because hopefully everyone goes home with the same number of bits that they came to the feed with. Instead, it is a delicate effort to respect the sharks while at the same time demonstrate the pure power and strength that the Hammerheads have that have allowed them to survive millions of years as apex predators.
Surely you are not going to miss that fish treat?
Walking the shark after lunch Open wide You had your treat now carry on
So were the actual dives somewhat like what I expected? I would say so, but like vacations, you still have to go and see for yourself in order to enjoy them.
I’ve always thought that crabs were pretty interesting creatures. Six legs — walk in any direction and have a hard shell to protect them. Not too bad. Maybe I am imagining it but they seem to have interesting personalities.
A hermit crab with his own anemone and greenery
An arrow crab feeding at night
When I think about it, I think I have seen more crabs at night or under poor light than I have under bright sunny conditions. I guess that is probably pretty telling.
porcelain crab fishing for dinner
plumed hairy crab
Given the diversity of crabs I think I will keep my eyes open to see more crabs that I have not previously seen.
Diving in St. Lucia turned out to be full of surprises. We went in December, 2018 and there were no crowds. We had the reef pretty much to ourselves. We dove with a shop called Scuba Steve’s because we were staying on the north end of the island. I don’t think I have been to any Caribbean island where I have seen as many octopi. On just about every dive I saw at least one octopus and on several dives I saw more than one.
An Octopus lounging on the colorful reef
The reef was healthy and exceptionally colorful. You would think that an octopus would be able to do a better job of camouflage than this fellow did, white and brown stands out on these sponges, but it made for a nice contrast for the picture.
Another aspect of the diving in St. Lucia that struck me was the variety of sponges and their incredible colors. There were tons of barrel sponges, vase sponges and tube sponges that added enormous color to the dives.
Tube sponges with diver
There is only one wreck dive that was available when we were there. Of course we got our wires crossed and we dove it the day I was shooting with a macro lens. I didn’t get any pictures per se of the wreck, but the wreck did provide a healthy environment for a variety of fish and sea critters, (including frog fish) and of course there was the nearly obligatory octopus.
Queen angel fish on the wreck
In the middle of the week we were there we did a tour of the island. We hired a guide who drove us around much of the island, which has a pretty laid back Caribbean vibe. Would I like to go back, yup, it was a very relaxed trip and they do know how to cook.
The first dive we did in British Virgin Islands (“BVI”) in 2018 was at the Cistern point off of Cooper island. We dropped down behind the boat and swam to the mooring line. We dropped to the bottom which was at 27 feet at the mooring ball. The area around the mooring ball was mostly sand. It looked like the cat. 5 hurricane last year had beaten up most of the hard coral. But the hard coral is slowing making a come back.
The soft corals are ok, but a bit sparse. It was a sunny day to start, but later in the dive the sun started to go behind the clouds, meaning that I had to turn up the strobes a bit . I found quite a few large lobsters in various overhangs. They looked to be in the 5 + pound range.
diver with lobster
There were several dips in the ocean floor. I dropped down to see the various animals hiding in the hole in the reef. The fish seem to be making a bit of a come back. We saw several scrawled file fish. I saw one queen trigger fish. I saw quite a few box fish and one adult barracuda. We saw three large tarpon near a cave mouth. Inside the cave were some silversides and there were two lion fish hunting the silversides.
Later in the dives we got reasonably close to the tarpon.
Three tarpon swimming over the reef; its actually 15 feet of fish: 3 X 5 foot tarpon
Late in the dive we found a turtle. I took quite a few shots of him and got a few with my daughter Megan in the picture.
Megan and the turtle
Near the end of the dive we found one spotted moray who was pretty well hidden.
At the end of the dive an eagle ray that was easily 6 ft across came through the site. He was missing a tail.
I swam hard for both the turtle and the eagle ray. The turtle wasn’t too hard to catch. The ray was pretty fast and it was hard to get close to him.
I was a bit tired after the dive since the swim back to the boat was through some surge and the wind had picked up and was blowing us away from the boat.
The new housing and strobes worked well. I took over 200 images on the one hour long dive. Maximum depth was 42 feet. Viz was maybe 50-60 feet, less at the beginning and end of the dive. Better in the middle of the dive.
The Exhumas are a group of islands that are part of the Bahamas that begin about 30 miles of the southeaster tip of New Providence island where Nassau is located. The Exhumas are a beautiful chain of coral islands. On one side is the Atlantic Ocean, on the other side is the Gulf. On the Gulf side it is easy to sail in 20+knot winds and the water is still relatively calm. On the Atlantic side, with the same winds whip up the seas and it is easy to have 5-6 foot swells.
By staying on the gulf side of the islands, we managed to move relatively effortlessly without getting beat to a pulp by the seas. The diving on the gulf side, well it was relatively shallow, but the sea life was relatively diverse.
Red tipped sea goddess nudibranch, of course shows up while I have a wide angle set up on the camera.
The creatures also included a rather large slipper lobster, who I thought was as large as I had ever seen.
slipper lobster
For diving, it was important to be at the dive site ready to dive either on slack high or slack low tide. Most sites are near the channels between the islands. if you try to dive the sites without being on slack tide you are going to be doing a serious drift dive with currents ranging from 2-5 knots. Given that we were not particularly well set up for drift dives it meant that we had to time our dives well to be on slack water. Of course in between we were able snorkel and saw eagle rays, green sea turtles and even swimming pigs and native iguanas.
Most days early morning and sunsets were spectacular.
The only wreck dive in the Phukett area of Thailand, is near the Phi Phi islands. The MS King Cruiser was a car ferry. On May 4, 1997 it sank off the West Coast of Southern Thailand. The ferry was operating between Phuket and the Phi Phi Islands in southern Thailand when she hit a submerged collection of rocky pinnacles at Anemone Reef, 10 miles off Phi Phi Island. The impact tore a large hole in the hull, and the vessel sank within two and a half hours. Nevertheless all of the passengers were rescued.
The ferry was on a regular crossing in normal conditions, and the Anemone Reef was charted and well known by captains in the area. This has led to various unproven theories as to why the accident occurred. Theories include insurance fraud due to the owners experiencing financial difficulties on the unprofitable route, and also that local dive companies paid the captain to sink the vessel as, up until that time, there were no wreck dives around Phuket. The captain was found to be negligent.
The vessel sits upright on a sandy bottom in around 30 meters of water. Originally the shallowest part of the wreck rose to ~10 meters, but today most of the superstructure is collapsed making the shallowest part of the wreck currently deeper than 18 meters. The wreck remains largely in one piece, although all of the upper deck has collapsed.
When we dove the King Cruiser we had a calm day, with very small surface waves. Although we were diving the wreck at slack high tide, the current around the wreck was moving. Getting to the mooring ball with my camera was a chore. We all descended on the mooring line which ties to the wheelhouse. Once we got to the wreck, the wreck for the most part blocked the current. The thing that struck me was that the first school of fish we was a school of giant porcupine fish. Now in the past I have seen a couple of porcupine fish swimming together but I’ve never seen a school of several hundred swimming together. Now here was the disappointing problem, besides the current moving pretty quickly where the porcupine fish were swimming, viz was maybe 20 feet. Instead of burning my air to try to get a picture that would at best have been difficult to see the school, I opted to follow individuals around as they swam around the boat.
As we dropped down over the leeward side of the wreck it was pretty obvious that the hull was covered in oyster shells and other mollusks. I could see an enormous number of sea urchins. That was reason enough to be careful not to touch anything. But there were also other reasons like lion fish and stone fish on the hull. If you look closely beneath the lionfish in the middle of the screen you can see the tail of a stone fish who is right next to a sea urchin.
Soon we were in the mist of an enormous school of big eyed snappers. The schools of fish were crazy and the were everywhere.
As we made our way around the wreck we found the ship’s propeller which is at about 93 feet.
The current near the bottom was not nearly as strong as it was towards the top of the wreck so I stayed near the bottom, but had to watch my deco time. I stayed over 20 minutes at 90+ feet and then had to move up once I got back to the leeward side of the ship.
stern railing
Where there were once windows in the ship there were large cutout where you could look in and see some of the schools of fish.
When I reached the stern of the wreck again it was time to start the ascent. No I didn’t go into deco, but I did have to do three stops to avoid doing so. This was a very good dive to be diving a shearwater dive computer since it made determining the end and stops on the way back up very easy.
All in all the King Cruiser was an interesting dive. I was really wanting the rebreather so I could have extended my bottom time and not had to rush through certain parts of the dive.
After making a 10 day exploratory trip to Thailand I can say, I sure hope I get to go back. Here is what I learned from the trip.
If you can break the flights into multi-day segments, do so. What did I do: I flew Dallas to Doha, Qatar (about a 15 hour segment) Doha to Phuket, Thailand, (6+ hours) with a multi-hour layover in Qatar. Even though all the segments were on 777’s, flying 20+ hours is just a beating. I hope next time I can break the trip up into somewhat more manageable segments. Dallas to Hawaii, after a couple of days in Hawaii to …. (you get the point, hop skip and jump style flying).
If you fly the trip all at once, get a day room when you land. I did and I was very glad to be able to sleep 5 hours and then go find the sail boat I would live on for 10 days. Oh and having a pool at the day room was good too since after all of that flying I needed a way to stretch out the muscles that had been cramped up in those airplane seats.
Thai food is awesome. Every meal I had was great. Now many of the meals I had were on the catamaran, but the meals I had on shore were also great and ridiculously inexpensive. Try finding a restaurant in the U.S. where you can get a main course and a drink for $6 U.S. at dinner. Do be careful, the Thai’s like their food spicy so get the tourist version of the meal at least until you figure out how spicy you like it.
After flying as long as you have to in order to get to Thailand, get a Thai massage. Compared to what you would pay in the U.S. they are very reasonable. $400 baht or as of this writing about $12 U.S.
porcelain crab fishing for dinner
5. If you are an underwater photographer, plan on shooting more macro than wide angle. From Phuket where I got on the boat, until we had sailed down to Phi Phi island, the water reminded me of the Platte river in Nebraska; too thick to drink to thin to plow. We did not do any diving for the first couple of days of the trip because the water visibility was too poor. Diving would have resembled the Helen Keller diving school, you see with your hands and not with your eyes. That said there was plenty to see topside.
Koh Hong
6. If all you shoot underwater is macro, you are going to miss some great wide angle shots. If you think about it for a moment, you will probably realize that the abundance of particulate in the water is food to fish. And, yes we did see some amazing schools of fish on quite a few of the dive sites. So if all you shot was macro, you may have missed shooting the enormous fish aggregations.
There were three divers on the other side of this school of fish. I couldn’t see them, can you? Now I could swim through the school of fish to find them, but I think I’ll take a shot or two before I do so.
7. The long tail boats (see the first picture above) are everywhere and you do need to be careful where you surface. Near Phuket the long tails are powered by what looks like an old chevy engine.
long tail boat
The engine is attached to about an 8 foot transmission with a propeller at the end. That system allows the long tails to operate in very shallow water with a draft of about a foot.
For divers long tails can be bad, because if you get hit by the prop you will look like a frog in a blender. Not a pretty sight. As we got further from Phukett the long tail boat engines were smaller so that towards the end of the trip they were running with what looked and sounded like lawn mower engines, but even those engines could deliver a lethal blow to an unsuspecting diver. We surfaced as a group and made sure we had our smb’s deployed during the safety stop.
8. Be ready for current. Cozumel Mexico has current, for the most it part goes one direction. The Cozumel port authority shuts down diving if the current gets too fast or the weather gets too bad. The water around Thailand has current; its fast and it doesn’t necessarily go in one direction on any given dive. There is no port authority monitoring it. Early in the trip we anchored the boat, threw out the tag line and the pool was open. One of the guests jumped in with a noodle and before he came up he had reached the end of a 50 foot tag line. We moved the boat and got out of that current. So watch the current it can be fast. Dive with locals who know the local currents.
Those are the big points I learned from the trip. More on the dive sites later…
Unlike most of my posts, I have included more about how we got to Fiji and more details about the travel rather than just focusing on the dives.
Day 1 of our trip was a lot of flying. Dallas to San Francisco was about four hours and uneventful. I had worked until noon that Thursday, the day we were to leave, and then went home to make sure I had all of my gear ready. I had packed over the preceding two weekends so I needed to make sure I had not forgotten anything in the packing process. We were picked up at the house at 3 p.m. We left Dallas late in the afternoon and had a several hour layover in San Francisco. We ate at an airport restaurant; the food was passable, but nothing special.
The flight from San Francisco to Nandi airport in Fiji, was not a lot of fun. We left San Francisco around 10 p.m. local time. The flight was 10 hours of feeling like a sardine in a can of sardines. There were a few empty seats thank goodness. We probably should have paid for the upgrade from coach. The seats were close together and food was crap. Hardly slept a wink. Nancy took a sleeping pill and then was awaken several times while she was trying to sleep. We flew over the equator and over the international date line. We started the trip on Thursday afternoon and arrived in Fiji early on Saturday.
Our early arrival in Fiji at 5 a.m. local time on Saturday was uneventful. We collected all of our luggage, fortunately it all arrived, and cleared customs without any issues. Based on travel advisories we had received I had split up the camera equipment in my backpack. I had put two camera bodies and multiple lenses and a focus light in my photographer’s vest which I wore so my backpack would only weigh about 15 pounds. My backpack would have otherwise weighed in at over 40 pounds. Once we got on the plane I had put the equipment back in the backpack and put it back in the overhead. The games we play to avoid another bag fee of $200.
The temperature in Nandi was pleasant, almost cool. From the airport we took a cab to the local yacht club that advertised it was open for breakfast at 7 a.m. We drove by a spa that advertised day rooms, which didn’t look to be open. We would later learn that it was open, oh well. The yacht club didn’t actually open until 10 am. We got lucky, we met Andrew from a local dive shop who let us park our bags while we got breakfast. (I wanted to try to do a dive or two with Andrew and his shop after he was kind to us, but unfortunately our travel plans would not allow us to fit it in.) In a local restaurant in the marina near the yacht club we had breakfast. I had a Fijian breakfast burrito scrambled eggs with mushrooms in a tortilla. It was pretty good. Who knew I had to fly to Fiji to have a breakfast burrito? After breakfast, we moved the gear to the yacht club and tried to rest. We both slept on what looked like bean bag chairs. After we slept for a while we ate lunch and tried to stay awake until 5 pm when we met the crew from the boat.
We were met at the yacht club by Steve and Georgia, the base managers who had been our crew on a trip we did in the Pearl islands of Panama. They introduced the crew for our trip, Julian the captain and Jim the first mate, both from Fiji. We met the other guests on the trip and had a round of drinks while we waited for dinner. Dinner was a lobster dish and Fijian ceviche, which were very good. The rest of the evening was pretty much a blurr for me because of the lack of sleep. I finally got to sleep and slept until just past sunrise local time. Making the adjustment to Fijian time did not seem to be too difficult, but 17 hours of time differential did make it a bit tough to figure out when to check on things back at the office.
Day 2 in Fiji: The sky was somewhat overcast with a little wind but otherwise nice. The clouds meant that I could still take a sunrise picture even though I got up a bit late.
Sunrise on day one of the boat trip
We ate breakfast around 8 a.m. while under way. I don’t think captain Julian put up the sails until after breakfast although we sailed until around noon.
We were on a 59 foot catamaran which is a luxury boat in the Trade Winds system. To say that the boat is very nice, is an understatement. There is quite a
bit of room for the guests to read and sit around on the boat and watch the islands go by while the boat is underway. The state rooms are good sized and there is plenty of storage space for cloths and camera equipment. We were traveling at about 4-6 knots under motor and sail. My underwater housing was stowed in the diving equipment compartment. The marine heads are well designed and are efficient. The marine toilets were push button flush and seemed to work without getting stopped up. (This is a vast improvement over the first trade winds boat we sailed on in which to flush the toilet you had to hand pump water into it in order for it to flush. Also, on the old boats there was little if any air conditioning. And, electrical plugs were at a premium. The new luxury boats are much better at providing the creature comforts that are easy to get accustom to using). There are two U.S. electrical plugs on each side of the bed and more plugs up in the saloon where the kitchen is located. At 59 feet in length there is plenty of room to house the eight guests. Air conditioning on the boat works well, and it was on each evening so we could sleep well.
We had breakfast while underway. The food was excellent. Jim was a chef at a prior job and it shows. He is one of the better chefs we have had on the trade winds cruises. We did not have the typical trade winds menu, I suspect that is impart related to what food staples are available in Fiji, but the difference was refreshing. By midday, Chris, one of the guests had caught a tuna that probably weighed 10 to 12 pounds. The tuna was good as sushimi, and as sushi.
Chris hooks a tuna
We reached our destination before noon. We snorkeled for about an hour before lunch. Then after lunch, I assembled the underwater camera housing and went back out and snorkeled for another couple of hours with the camera. There were several things about the snorkeling that struck me. One, the variety or corals was significantly greater that what we are accustomed to seeing in the Caribbean.
Second, the health of the various corals appeared to be very good. Third, while some of the fish looked somewhat familiar, but in different colors, there were a lot of fish that were quite different from what we were used to seeing in the Caribbean.
blue green damsel fish and stag horn coral
By the time I got out of the water, the light was going down. The clouds had rolled in so it was a pretty over cast day; consequently, it got dark fairly early.
At dinner we learned that we would go to manta strait and see if we could see any manta rays snorkeling the morning. We anticipated we would do a dive later probably after lunch. Out of the guests we had 6 divers. One of them, Len, a retired attorney from Nevada was 82. I decided I would keep an eye on Len just to make sure he was ok. When you think about it, it is pretty impressive to be able to strap almost 50 pounds on your back and then be able to go diving. I sure hope I can continue to dive until I’m 82, of course that does assume I live that long.
Day 3: We had clear skies and we went snorkeling at manta bay right after breakfast. Just before we dropped anchor at manta bay, a sea plane landed and coasted up to the manta bay resort, which not surprisingly, sits on manta bay. Now seeing a sea plane land and take someone up to a resort is not something we see every day in Dallas.
sea plane at the manta resort
Unfortunately, no manta rays showed up at manta bay when we were there, but we did find an octopus and a lot of other sea life.
After our snorkel we sailed to sand dollar beach. When we got there, I looked down at the wall near our anchorage and said “lets go diving”. Well that didn’t work out. I suspect in part because getting tanks refilled in the Yasawa islands is not very easy. And, unfortunately dollar beach was a bit rough with the surge and current to see much snorkeling. Later that day Julian moved the boat closer to sand dollar beach.
The coral break was mostly dead, and we didn’t find many sand dollars. We talked about going for a night snorkel, but I was pretty tired so I gave up. The food was good. Beef tips at lunch were great. Breakfast was scrambled eggs, bacon and pancakes. Good thing we are snorkeling quite a bit otherwise weight gain would have been a challenge. I was hoping that the dive in the morning would be worth waiting for.
Day 4: Julian moved the boat back to the early anchorage at Sand Dollar beach. Visibility at the beginning of the dive was excellent. We weight checked Len and with 10 pounds he was fine. Weight checked Nancy with a new wetsuit and 24 pounds seemed ok, but she did have problems getting down. Jim said he gave her some more weight to get down. I chalked it up to first dive of the trip jitters. Unfortunately, the weight distribution was not even according to Nancy so she felt like she was going to roll to one side. Mid-way thorough the dive visibility got really bad. Then Nancy’s computer told her she only had 2 minutes of air left; when I got to her she was checking the analogue gas gauge and it showed 1000 pounds of gas so I helped calm her down and she stayed down for the rest of the dive. Meanwhile I had seen a sea krate so I went back and checked it out, got a picture or two before it was time to do the three minute safety stop. Visibility went from great to crappy mid-way through the dive and then back to good, then we had to turn around. So I suspect between the visibility, the computer malfunction and the new wetsuit, Nancy was not enjoying that first dive too much.
Sea krate, Laticauda colubrina
After the dive, Julian moved the boat to another “Y” island. We did some snorkeling after we anchored. Later in the afternoon we went into the village on the island where we had a kava ceremony. Everyone had to put on a sarong, even the guys. The ceremony was pretty interesting. They offered us Kava drink which looked and tastes like dirty dishwater. Afterwards the locals danced and sang for us. It was quite a nice ceremony. Captain Julian explained that Kava ceremonies had been abused in the past by outsiders who would come in engage in the kava ceremony and then not leave for a long time, all the while expecting the villagers to feed and house them. Nice work if you can get it, but I guess they now ask how long you are planning on staying at most if not all of the villages. I guess even paradise has its challenges.
A sandy beach on one of the Yasawa islands
The village we visited has maybe 300 people. Most are older men and women, grandma and grand pa age folks who tend to be fisherman or farmers. Then there are young children who are going to school.
Going back to school
We walked through a preschool school and saw some of the youngsters who attended.
Even in school what is outside is more interesting than inside
Most of the people from the village who were in the 18 -40 year age range were either away at school or had moved out of the village to live and work in the cities in Fiji to make a living. Most of the people who live in the village appear to live a subsistence lifestyle. Len was our honorary chief for our group and they made a nice lei for him and for everyone in our group. The people living in the village were nice people.
After the Kava ceremony we took the dingy back to the boat and then had vegetarian lasagna which was ok. Sorry, I just like meat protein, so it’s hard for me to get excited about vegetarian anything.
Day 5: I woke up early around 3:30 a.m. because my left ear was bothering me. Too much water, with no drops. I found some hydrogen peroxide and treated both ears then took an ibropen. I was hopeful the hydrogen peroxide would take care of the problem so I could keep diving. (Fortunately, the hydrogen peroxide did the trick and I was fine).
So far on this trip I had taken almost as many topside pictures as I had taken u/w pictures, which is out of character for me; but I did have to do something on those long sails. And, besides we had only done one dive so far. The snorkeling had been good, but it’s hard for me to get excited about snorkeling since the angle of the shots are for the most part overhead shots which rarely produce usable results. Diving down and trying to clear my ears with each breath hold is a challenge since my ears clear slowly and by the time I got down to depth I would typically have very little time to compose an image. In my mind snorkeling is not particularly useful.
Since I was up early I noticed the lights at the back of the boat seem to attract quite a few little fish. Every now and then a needle fish which was maybe a foot in length would come up and try to get a free meal. It didn’t appear that he was particularly effective in his hunting.
By 6:30 a.m. the light was starting to come up and it looked like we would have at least a cloudy morning. There was a little wind, but not more than 3 knots. The water was very still with hardly a ripple. It looked like the sun would come up over a mountain which usually means we will probably not have much of a sunrise.
Sometimes its good to be wrong about what the sunrise will look like
Well I guessed wrong, it turns out it was a pretty nice sunrise. I even managed to capture on video of the some of the sound of the waves crashing on the beach and the sounds of roosters crowing in the morning.
Day 6: Thursday; We had a long sail in the morning. We stopped at lunch and had a snorkel. The coral was pretty, but the viz was a bit iffy maybe 50 feet of viz. We had lunch then sailed south to Mana island. We did a dive on an uncharted dive site. Huge bommies, not a lot of fish. I’ve named the site, “Can’t Bommie Love”.
Can’t bommie love dive site
I got a few shots but viz was pretty poor and with little fish life the bommies were okay but not spectacular. We had Indian food that night on the boat. I was thinking, hopefully we will get tanks filled and go diving on Friday. We did sail out to where they filmed Blue Lagoon. Yep it is pretty, and we did another snorkel.
Blue lagoon
Day 7: Friday; tank fills are taking quite a while. One compressor, 3 whips and 50 tanks ahead of us. At least the bay is beautiful. Only a handful of boats. Read and responded to several emails before breakfast. Sunrise was a bit boring; no clouds so not a lot of character to the sun rise. I guess the resort that is near us has been closed for 4 months because the “Survivor” series rented it all and closed it so they could film nearby. My left ear is still bothering me but it clears alright so it must be an outer or middle ear problem. Food had been good; bacon and quiche, plenty of food. Getting bored waiting for the tanks to get filled.
I suspect once the tanks are filled we will head off to a dive site and dive it then head closer to the port. By 10 a.m. it looks like some of the tanks have finally come back. I checked the tanks after I picked one up and said it felt light. I unfortunately was right, the tanks had been hot filled and only had about 2700 pounds of air. So we left the tanks in the sun and let them warm up so with heat expansion they would register about 2900 but pressure would drop once we hit the water. Because the tanks are being filled so slowly, Jim stays at the shop filling tanks and Julian takes the boat out to a nearby reef. We wait for Jim and the dingy and the last of the tanks out at the reef.
While we were waiting to arrive we did a snorkel around the reef and we see several sea planes land which was pretty interesting. Nice way to get to a resort. After Jim gets back to the boat, we do dive 3 of the week, which is a site known as cabbage patch. We start over white sand and drop down to about 30 feet and follow the sand down to the reef.
divers swimming toward the cabbage patch site
One of the early creatures we encounter is a huge broadclub cuttlefish. Steve took some video of him and them I took a couple of stills. The cuttle fish just sits there, but he changed colors a few times before he swam away.
Broadclub cuddlefish
We eventually dive deeper down and see the cabbage patch which is a huge patch of plate coral. Among the leaves of the cabbage patch there are three schools of fish.
The cabbage patch
I take a few stills and then a few videos of the moving schools of fish. We continue on until we hit 30 minutes of dive time and then we turn around and head back. On the way back, I saw a couple of interesting tunicates and a few more schools of fish. When we were about to make a left turn to get back to the boat, I notice a sea krate at the bottom so I dropped down and watched him hunt for food. Sea krates are pretty animals despite being quite so toxic. And of course, there is no anti-venom for them so if you get bitten, you are dead. I got close to the sea krate, but he largely ignores me while I am videoing him. After I finish filming the sea krate, we head back to the boat and it’s a pretty good swim, several hundred yards back to the boat. I deploy my smb on the way back and carry the flag back since there is some boat traffic in the area. It was a good dive with excellent viz and interesting wildlife.
At the boat we get the gear hung on the sides of the boat so it can dry. The boat now looks like the streets of Milan where they hang all of the laundry out to dry. Bummer, it’s the last dive at least on this part of the trip. Fortunately, we will have more dives on the second half of the trip. I checked some of the images from underwater. I did get some good ones on the dive and on this part of the trip. I will put them away for now and start new cards. All of the weight restrictions for the airlines mean that I have to make some hard choices about what gear I bring. And, I left the netbook at home to conserve space and weight. So I wasn’t able to edit any of the photos until after we returned to Dallas.
This part of the trip has been good. Julian and Jim were excellent as captain and fist mate. I ‘d sail with them again. Sure wish we could get a compressor on the next boat.
Sea Star wreck with railing and sun ballThe last time I dove on the wreck known as the Sea Star off the coast of Grand Bahama, the ship was intact and it was relatively easy to circumnavigate around the exterior of the ship. The ship may have had a small list to one side but it seemed to be otherwise upright and easy to tell that it was formerly a ship.
In December 2016 a hurricane went through Grand Bahama and did quite a bit of damage on the island, but also changed several of the dive sites that are just off shore from the island. The Sea Star went from looking like a ship to being torn in about half and left in the shape of an “L”. It certainly opened up the cargo hold.
And, while many parts of the ship were almost unrecognizable, towards what was the stern of the ship there were still parts that looked similar to what we had seen of the stern in our previous visit. And, some of the sponge life was undisturbed by the storm.
The new “foot print” of the Sea Star does give some interesting views that previously either didn’t exist or were not as recognizable.
It will be interesting to see if the sea life that previously grew on the Sea Star re-establishes itself in the coming years.
Some days I think about all the types of certain critters I have seen and then think that I will probably not see something new on the next trip. It sure is nice to be wrong. During the last trip to Grand Bahama it was awesome to see a loggerhead turtle up close.
I had only seen a loggerhead turtle one other time and that was from a boat deck. The last time I saw one it was only for a brief second because he popped his head up only a few meters ahead of our catamaran and then ducked down again as he saw we were sailing right towards him. I don’t think I have ever seen a turtle move so fast. Now he was never in danger because he would have passed between the two pontoons of the boat without any problem. Nevertheless, because I was close to the front of the boat I could see just how enormous he was. Most turtles I have seen have been maybe a few feet across the bottom of their shell. The fellow who swam under the boat was easily 2 meets across the bottom of his shell. If I had to guess he must have weighed several hundred pounds.
The loggerhead turtle I saw in the Bahamas raced through the dive site, right past a bunch of divers. He was huge — well over 500 pounds.
At first I did not see any reason for why this turtle seemed quite determined to “motor” through the site. It was only after I took the first shot that I saw why. Maybe having a grey reef shark following you is no big deal for a turtle that weighs several hundred pounds.
But then again, maybe having a large shark following you is just an annoyance. I really don’t know, but even if I had a hard shell, I don’t think I would mess around with those teeth. So maybe swimming through the circle of divers was the idea after all. We were the bait.
Oh yeah, the turtle took a right angle after passing me, and the shark just kept swimming straight. Who says turtles are slow.
I was thinking about the dives we did in Nassau and it occurred to me that it was some of the most diverse, and productive diving I have had a chance to do. Day 1 we spent a fair amount of time diving with gray reef sharks. Even before the feeding began the sharks were remarkably cooperative in positioning themselves so that they made interesting models.
Grey reef shark swimming overhead
The first day we did two shark divers at shark junction with the Stuart Cove dive shop. Dive one was pretty mellow and while there were quite a few sharks, the 18 divers on the boat never got particularly close to the sharks since they were curious, but at best aloof. The second dive was a shark feed and it was interesting to watch the sharks come in and be fed. There was quite a bit of bumping and jostling for position by the sharks. The divers were all pretty well out of the line of swimming, except for the shark feeder and the photographers who had chain mail suits.
Here is a brief video from the shark feed.
And did I mention the wrecks? There are lots of them and many of them have appeared in one or more movies.
And some of the wrecks are just interesting because their structure has an amazing amount of growth that has accumulated on them.
A 200 plus pound Black Grouper at Shark Junction in the Bahamas
I used to think of the ocean as endless and its fish life as unaffected by people. I was wrong on both counts. Yes, over 70% of the earth is covered in water. Yes, if you were to take the average depth of the ocean and take out the lows and the highs the average depth would be over 4,000 feet deep, or at least so I have read.
But, the ocean that can be explored by recreational divers is only 130 feet deep. And, within that depth in many places, fisherman have and are over fishing many species. Many variety of grouper, such as black grouper are becoming much rarer to see in large part because they do taste good. For the most part I have stopped eating grouper because of the pressure on them. Other species of fish are also being fished to extinction.
Isn’t it odd, that lion fish, an invasive species in the Caribbean are thriving and doing so at the expense of native fish such as the parrot fish who is necessary to reefs in order to keep algae at bay.
Are you the scourge of the Caribbean?
So I will continue to eat lion fish, in hopes that someone will figure out how to eradicate them from the Caribbean, and avoid grouper in hopes that they will make a recovery. And, I will continue to bring up trash when I see it in the ocean in hopes that by removing it some small part of the wild life that remains in the sea will be there the next time I return. Its an enormous task in reality. I hope you will join me in my small little effort to save the sea.
Second, the health of the various corals appeared to be very good. Third, while some of the fish looked somewhat familiar, but in different colors, there were a lot of fish that were quite different from what we were used to seeing in the Caribbean. 
Some days I think about all the types of certain critters I have seen and then think that I will probably not see something new on the next trip. It sure is nice to be wrong. During the last trip to Grand Bahama it was awesome to see a loggerhead turtle up close. 
