Warm blue water with a ton of marine life to me is a great hook to go visit an island. In early July 2022 we sailed around St. Martin and got in a pedestrian 8 dives in a week. Nevertheless, we still saw a good variety of reef live. Some of my favorites were the turtles. All were green sea turtles but there were quite a few of them. Most were eating on the reef. Only one was swimming apparently looking for a meal.
A turtle at rest
But we also saw a variety of fish. Some were the usual pretty grunts that would show up in relatively large schools.
Ceasar grunts and goat fish swimming through a wreck
But the colors on the reef were not limited to browns and yellows. Instead there were also reds and other colors.
Black bar soldier fish beneath soft corals
And of course, often on the edge of visibility there were grey reef sharks patrolling around the divers.
During a few months a year, primarily from December to March, it is possible to see great hammerhead sharks in Bimini. Sure I had taken pictures of sharks underwater before, but never hammerhead sharks.
In my preparation for the trip, it looked to me like the likelyhood of getting a picture of a great hammerhead without going on a dive where the sharks were being fed, was a very low probability. You have to ask: “What self respecting apex predator would want to be around a bunch of noisy open circuit divers?” The answer it seemed to me was a very old decrepit deaf hammerhead and then that would probably be a fluke. So that meant in all probability I would have to be on a dive where the shop feed the hammerheads in order to get them to come in close enough to photograph. That determination, limited the shops that I could dive with to one in Bimini. As sometimes happens, one of my friends Michelle, with DXDivers was running a trip out to Bimini to dive at the Big Game Club with Neal Watson’s shop. So I signed up for the trip and talked David, one of my dive buddies into joining me.
So, before my trip I started by looking at images that had been taken in Bimini. What I noticed was that where available the camera settings reflected the images had been shot on 16mm fish eye lenses. Having shot a 16mm lens for several years it occurred to me that it is a great lens if you can get close to the subject, but not so great if you could not get reasonably close. It also occurred to me that it was probably a bad idea to swim towards a shark that was feeding.
A few years ago I had added to my lens collection a 16-35 f4 zoom lens. The optical characterisitics of the lens I think are quite impressive because it renders a good rectilinear image as long as there is a good amount of light. I had shot the lens behind a 9 inch Zen dome and the optical characteristics were quite good. Given that I thought there was a pretty good chance that the sharks might be a ways away from me when peak action occurred, I opted to bring along the 16-35mm lens and the Zen dome. Now the down side of the Zen dome is that it’s enormous, and weighs several pounds. It also requires a substantial extension tube. My camera rig without the Zen dome weighs in at about 35 pounds. The Zen dome with extension tube adds another 3 pounds or so but also changes substantially the buoyancy characteristics of my rig. And it takes up about almost a third of my dive bag. So now I had to think about what portion of my usual gear was I going to leave home?
In general the images that my review founds that I liked had been shot on full fame DSLR cameras. The ISO’s had been set at between 100 and 400. The fstops used had been between f7 and f14. I also noted that the shutter speed tended to be in the range of 1/200th to 1/250th of a second. The vast majority of the images appeared to have been shot with flash, although for most of the images I could not determine what flash unit or units had been used.
What I could not tell from the images that I reviewed was the relative depth that the shots were taken, but I could see that most were taken where the sharks were swimming over the white sand that is common in the Bahamas. My guess was that the water depth was about 30 feet. As it turned out my guess was pretty close, 26 feet on one dive and 24 on the other.
I next considered strategies for getting sharp focus of the hammerheads as they came in to feed. What I have noticed from other efforts at “shooting sharks” was that they are fast for underwater animals, and their movements seemed to me to be somewhat unpredictable. So It seemed to me that what I wanted to do was be able to use was three D tracking and to try to get focus on the eye as best I could. With some sharks I had noticed it was hard just keeping them in the frame if they were moving quickly. As one of my friends video demonstrates hammerheads are very fast in the water. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZ5mYuFAt5y/?utm_medium=copy_link
It also occurred to me that continuous focus mode might help, but the limiting factor was that underwater strobes only recycle so fast. To try to help save the strobes, I used a relatively low manual strobe power so that if I shot more than one image at a time there was at least some hope that the strobe would fire a second and maybe a third time before recycling.
I also decided I would take a somewhat different approach to shooting the sharks. In most of the images I saw the angle of the shot placed the shark alone over the sand, with few if any divers in any shot. It seemed to me that the reality was that because the sharks were coming in to be fed there were divers who should be included in the shot along with the feeder.
Coming at you
It wasn’t until I was mid-way through the first dive that it occurred to me that the story really was the interaction between the feeders and the sharks. No it is not ballet, nor is it a bull fight because hopefully everyone goes home with the same number of bits that they came to the feed with. Instead, it is a delicate effort to respect the sharks while at the same time demonstrate the pure power and strength that the Hammerheads have that have allowed them to survive millions of years as apex predators.
Surely you are not going to miss that fish treat?
Walking the shark after lunch Open wide You had your treat now carry on
So were the actual dives somewhat like what I expected? I would say so, but like vacations, you still have to go and see for yourself in order to enjoy them.
Sometimes when we are diving we find things that catch our eyes but yet, the conditions are less than ideal. Other times we go on a trip where we expect to see one or more particular animals, yet they just don’t show up. Is the thrill of getting to see one or more rare or unusual animals what keeps us diving? Maybe, but there is probably more to it than that.
About seven years ago I had a trip planned that would allow me to go to a location that has a high probability of seeing manatees. With my usual luck it snowed so hard that the flights would not go from Dallas to Florida so that trip like many of late, wound up on the scrape heap.
This year we traveled to Placentia Belize and while it is unusual to see manatees in Belize it is at least possible. We had been sailing for a week and had not seen any manatees. Now we had seen quite a bit of wildlife, but we had not found a single manatee even though we had been in some relatively good environmental conditions to spot them. We saw dolphins. We saw turtles.
And sometimes we could get pretty close to the animals.
We saw sharks.
We saw quite good variety of tropical fish and other marine life.
But no manatees. I had all but given up hope of spotting any. We got to the last day of sailing and cruised into a small island. The water visibility was pretty poor. I think I was the only one to get into the water to snorkel. We had long since burned up all of our air tanks so I was relegated to snorkeling. I took my underwater camera and left the strobes off because I figured they would just light up all the particulate in the water. I had been in the water over an hour and had seen a few interesting critters, but nothing particularly interesting. I think I had taken maybe 3 or 4 shots with the rest of time just looking for anything interesting. The reef went pretty much up to the shoreline and I had started from the boat and I swam more or less towards the island. There were a couple of small dogs on shore that would periodically bark at me. I guess they just wanted to let me know they were there. I had swum the length of the island (it was small) when the reef pretty much petered out and I found myself over mostly turtle grass. There wasn’t even any self respecting turtle grazing on the turtle grass. I was about to turn around and head to the boat when I saw movement in the water. It was maybe 25 meters away so I swam toward it. As I swam the water got murkier and murkier. And after a few seconds it occurred to me what I was looking at through the murk…
Yep, it was that long hoped for manatee. So I kicked hard to try to get closer. Unfortunately, he heard me. With a tail flip or two he was out of range.
Oh well, I guess I will have to find another one….
Those dark spots are the reef reaching up to grab the boat
Belize is about the size of Massachusetts, so we are not talking about a large land mass, at least for someone from Texas. Belize is lucky because off it’s coast is the second largest reef system in the world. The Meso American reef stretches the entire length of the coast of Belize and carries over to the Riviera Maya in Mexico to the north, and down to Honduras to the south.
There are quite a few islands off the coast of the mainland. Perhaps the most famous islands include San Pedro, and Caye Cauker. What becomes obvious if you fly into Placencia, is that there are quite a few islands not far from the mainland. Many of the islands and islets have interesting names such as Ray Caye, South Caye, Silk Caye ect. Some are have houses or other buildings on them. Some are not much more than a palm tree or two and maybe a mangrove tree or two. But sandwiched among a number of the islands is an area that from a sailing perspective is a fairly difficult area to navigate. In the “bad lands” the water tends to be shallow, and the reef is not particularly well charted.
Ten years ago when we first sailed into the bad lands with a very capable South African captain, he told me that he really watched his gps chart constantly because he did not want to run aground. He explained and it became pretty obvious fairly quickly that the reef was very shallow and rose and fell without a lot of warning. Our captain 10 years ago followed exactly the same track on each trip, just so he would not run aground. Ten years later we sailed with a Belizean captain. Captain David knew the bad lands like the back of his hand, but still he was careful to watch the shadows in the water to make sure the reef did not reach up and grab our boat.
But because the bad lands are pretty shallow they make an excellent place to go snorkeling.
Are the bad lands deep enough to dive, perhaps, but they are probably better just to snorkel and save our gas for a part of the reef that is not so shallow.
I’ve always thought that crabs were pretty interesting creatures. Six legs — walk in any direction and have a hard shell to protect them. Not too bad. Maybe I am imagining it but they seem to have interesting personalities.
A hermit crab with his own anemone and greenery
An arrow crab feeding at night
When I think about it, I think I have seen more crabs at night or under poor light than I have under bright sunny conditions. I guess that is probably pretty telling.
porcelain crab fishing for dinner
plumed hairy crab
Given the diversity of crabs I think I will keep my eyes open to see more crabs that I have not previously seen.
Sometimes I am pretty surprised by the level of detail I see in images after I am done shooting underwater. Now granted looking through a mask into a eye piece of my underwater housing, about an 3/4s of an inch, or the 1.3 inch by 1.3 inch screen is sometimes much harder than it ought to be. The combination of today’s digital cameras and available lenses can make it very clear how much detail some animals eyes contain. Add some magnification with a diopter and what was once less than a quarter of an inch across is now much bigger.
For quite a while I was trying to shoot a pair of pipe fish that were hanging out fairly close to the bottom. One was red, one was green. Even though I had a 60 mm lens on at the time which gives a broader depth of field than a 105mm I was having quite a bit of trouble getting the two pipe fish in one image. I got a couple useable shots but then I decided to get a close as I could with the 60mm and added a subsee 10 diopter (wet lens) and see what the eye looked like. The image above is somewhat cropped but does give you a sense of the detail in the eye of pipe fish. The pipe fishes eye can swivel in all directions somewhat like a flounders eye.
Frog fish eye
For an animal that relies on camouflage to feed, it is somewhat surprising how ornate the eye of a frog fish is. Yes, it is more subtle than the eye of a pipe fish or a flounder, but its design is still interesting.
Eyes of a mantis shrimp
Mantis shrimp can see more bands of light than we can. Their eyes can swivel independently and move in different directions. Although I think it would interesting to be able to see as a mantis shrimp sees, I am afraid it might make me nauseous to be able to have my eyes go in different directions at one time.
A juvenile anemone fish trying to hide in an anemone
The diversity of animal life and the beautiful soft corals in Fiji are more than enough to drag me back to Fiji. But this time I am going back to try to capture images and footage of humpback whales. Will we be successful in getting close enough to the whales to get anything interesting, I don’t know, but I’m betting we get some pretty long swims. For this trip I have added a 9 inch optical glass dome in order to try to capture a few split shots (half above the water and half below the water). Pushing that much glass through the water will probably be quite a work out. Hopefully we will come back with something interesting to see. Stay tuned….
My grandfather used to say quite often “Sonny using the right tool for the job makes all the difference.” My grandfather was a very skilled repairman who could take almost any mechanical device apart and repair it, most of the time without any schematics, diagrams or other description of the devise. When he took something apart he was very systematic. When he was done dissembling a device it looked like an engineer’s exploded schematic of the device. Of course for him the device went back together with no left over parts and almost always worked better than when he found it. Coming from my grandfather, advice about using the right tool for the project had significant meaning to me.
On the other hand, some of my family members motto has been adapt and change to meet the situation. Or if you don’t have the right tool for the job, improvise.
So I guess it is somewhat telling that one of my reoccurring nightmares is going on a trip to take pictures of whales underwater and discovering the camera rig is set up for macro or worse yet super macro. How many pictures of a whale’s eye do you need or want?
The same thought applies to ship wrecks. When I think about shooting a ship wreck I am thinking about what is the environment like where the wreck is located?
Papa doc with diver — Freeport Bahamas
Is the reef near the wreck, is the reef interesting? Has the wreck begun to grow over the wreck?
The tugboat with encrusting corals — Curacao
In preparing for a recent trip to St. Lucia I had looked on the internet to see what the most important wreck off the coast of St. Lucia was. I found some reasonably helpful information about the Lesleen M which pointed out that the Lesleen M Wreck is an old cargo ship that was sunk in 1986. The resulting artificial reef is home to numerous species of coral and aquatic life. The Lesleen M Wreck lies evenly on its keel. The wreck is approximately 165 feet long and rests at a depth of at a depth of 60 feet. From inside the engine room of the Lesleen M Wreck, there is a ladder that takes you into the cabins of the main deck. I think that is a reasonable good description of what I saw when I dove the Lesleen M.
But wouldn’t you know the day I dove the Lesleen M instead of having my wide angle lens, I had a 105 mm macro lens. So how did I adapt and adjust? I had no choice but to shoot macro. Here are few macro shots I took.
Green moray in your face, Lesleen M St. Lucia
And there were a few other interesting shots…
Queen angel fish on the wreck of the Lesleen M
But alas, no pictures of what I would call an underwater wreck. I guess I will have to go back.
Diving in St. Lucia turned out to be full of surprises. We went in December, 2018 and there were no crowds. We had the reef pretty much to ourselves. We dove with a shop called Scuba Steve’s because we were staying on the north end of the island. I don’t think I have been to any Caribbean island where I have seen as many octopi. On just about every dive I saw at least one octopus and on several dives I saw more than one.
An Octopus lounging on the colorful reef
The reef was healthy and exceptionally colorful. You would think that an octopus would be able to do a better job of camouflage than this fellow did, white and brown stands out on these sponges, but it made for a nice contrast for the picture.
Another aspect of the diving in St. Lucia that struck me was the variety of sponges and their incredible colors. There were tons of barrel sponges, vase sponges and tube sponges that added enormous color to the dives.
Tube sponges with diver
There is only one wreck dive that was available when we were there. Of course we got our wires crossed and we dove it the day I was shooting with a macro lens. I didn’t get any pictures per se of the wreck, but the wreck did provide a healthy environment for a variety of fish and sea critters, (including frog fish) and of course there was the nearly obligatory octopus.
Queen angel fish on the wreck
In the middle of the week we were there we did a tour of the island. We hired a guide who drove us around much of the island, which has a pretty laid back Caribbean vibe. Would I like to go back, yup, it was a very relaxed trip and they do know how to cook.
The first dive we did in British Virgin Islands (“BVI”) in 2018 was at the Cistern point off of Cooper island. We dropped down behind the boat and swam to the mooring line. We dropped to the bottom which was at 27 feet at the mooring ball. The area around the mooring ball was mostly sand. It looked like the cat. 5 hurricane last year had beaten up most of the hard coral. But the hard coral is slowing making a come back.
The soft corals are ok, but a bit sparse. It was a sunny day to start, but later in the dive the sun started to go behind the clouds, meaning that I had to turn up the strobes a bit . I found quite a few large lobsters in various overhangs. They looked to be in the 5 + pound range.
diver with lobster
There were several dips in the ocean floor. I dropped down to see the various animals hiding in the hole in the reef. The fish seem to be making a bit of a come back. We saw several scrawled file fish. I saw one queen trigger fish. I saw quite a few box fish and one adult barracuda. We saw three large tarpon near a cave mouth. Inside the cave were some silversides and there were two lion fish hunting the silversides.
Later in the dives we got reasonably close to the tarpon.
Three tarpon swimming over the reef; its actually 15 feet of fish: 3 X 5 foot tarpon
Late in the dive we found a turtle. I took quite a few shots of him and got a few with my daughter Megan in the picture.
Megan and the turtle
Near the end of the dive we found one spotted moray who was pretty well hidden.
At the end of the dive an eagle ray that was easily 6 ft across came through the site. He was missing a tail.
I swam hard for both the turtle and the eagle ray. The turtle wasn’t too hard to catch. The ray was pretty fast and it was hard to get close to him.
I was a bit tired after the dive since the swim back to the boat was through some surge and the wind had picked up and was blowing us away from the boat.
The new housing and strobes worked well. I took over 200 images on the one hour long dive. Maximum depth was 42 feet. Viz was maybe 50-60 feet, less at the beginning and end of the dive. Better in the middle of the dive.
The Exhumas are a group of islands that are part of the Bahamas that begin about 30 miles of the southeaster tip of New Providence island where Nassau is located. The Exhumas are a beautiful chain of coral islands. On one side is the Atlantic Ocean, on the other side is the Gulf. On the Gulf side it is easy to sail in 20+knot winds and the water is still relatively calm. On the Atlantic side, with the same winds whip up the seas and it is easy to have 5-6 foot swells.
By staying on the gulf side of the islands, we managed to move relatively effortlessly without getting beat to a pulp by the seas. The diving on the gulf side, well it was relatively shallow, but the sea life was relatively diverse.
Red tipped sea goddess nudibranch, of course shows up while I have a wide angle set up on the camera.
The creatures also included a rather large slipper lobster, who I thought was as large as I had ever seen.
slipper lobster
For diving, it was important to be at the dive site ready to dive either on slack high or slack low tide. Most sites are near the channels between the islands. if you try to dive the sites without being on slack tide you are going to be doing a serious drift dive with currents ranging from 2-5 knots. Given that we were not particularly well set up for drift dives it meant that we had to time our dives well to be on slack water. Of course in between we were able snorkel and saw eagle rays, green sea turtles and even swimming pigs and native iguanas.
Most days early morning and sunsets were spectacular.
The only wreck dive in the Phukett area of Thailand, is near the Phi Phi islands. The MS King Cruiser was a car ferry. On May 4, 1997 it sank off the West Coast of Southern Thailand. The ferry was operating between Phuket and the Phi Phi Islands in southern Thailand when she hit a submerged collection of rocky pinnacles at Anemone Reef, 10 miles off Phi Phi Island. The impact tore a large hole in the hull, and the vessel sank within two and a half hours. Nevertheless all of the passengers were rescued.
The ferry was on a regular crossing in normal conditions, and the Anemone Reef was charted and well known by captains in the area. This has led to various unproven theories as to why the accident occurred. Theories include insurance fraud due to the owners experiencing financial difficulties on the unprofitable route, and also that local dive companies paid the captain to sink the vessel as, up until that time, there were no wreck dives around Phuket. The captain was found to be negligent.
The vessel sits upright on a sandy bottom in around 30 meters of water. Originally the shallowest part of the wreck rose to ~10 meters, but today most of the superstructure is collapsed making the shallowest part of the wreck currently deeper than 18 meters. The wreck remains largely in one piece, although all of the upper deck has collapsed.
When we dove the King Cruiser we had a calm day, with very small surface waves. Although we were diving the wreck at slack high tide, the current around the wreck was moving. Getting to the mooring ball with my camera was a chore. We all descended on the mooring line which ties to the wheelhouse. Once we got to the wreck, the wreck for the most part blocked the current. The thing that struck me was that the first school of fish we was a school of giant porcupine fish. Now in the past I have seen a couple of porcupine fish swimming together but I’ve never seen a school of several hundred swimming together. Now here was the disappointing problem, besides the current moving pretty quickly where the porcupine fish were swimming, viz was maybe 20 feet. Instead of burning my air to try to get a picture that would at best have been difficult to see the school, I opted to follow individuals around as they swam around the boat.
As we dropped down over the leeward side of the wreck it was pretty obvious that the hull was covered in oyster shells and other mollusks. I could see an enormous number of sea urchins. That was reason enough to be careful not to touch anything. But there were also other reasons like lion fish and stone fish on the hull. If you look closely beneath the lionfish in the middle of the screen you can see the tail of a stone fish who is right next to a sea urchin.
Soon we were in the mist of an enormous school of big eyed snappers. The schools of fish were crazy and the were everywhere.
As we made our way around the wreck we found the ship’s propeller which is at about 93 feet.
The current near the bottom was not nearly as strong as it was towards the top of the wreck so I stayed near the bottom, but had to watch my deco time. I stayed over 20 minutes at 90+ feet and then had to move up once I got back to the leeward side of the ship.
stern railing
Where there were once windows in the ship there were large cutout where you could look in and see some of the schools of fish.
When I reached the stern of the wreck again it was time to start the ascent. No I didn’t go into deco, but I did have to do three stops to avoid doing so. This was a very good dive to be diving a shearwater dive computer since it made determining the end and stops on the way back up very easy.
All in all the King Cruiser was an interesting dive. I was really wanting the rebreather so I could have extended my bottom time and not had to rush through certain parts of the dive.
