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Have you ever been to the feeding of the Hammerhead Sharks in Bimini?

Lunch is served

During a few months a year, primarily from December to March, it is possible to see great hammerhead sharks in Bimini. Sure I had taken pictures of sharks underwater before, but never hammerhead sharks.

In my preparation for the trip, it looked to me like the likelyhood of getting a picture of a great hammerhead without going on a dive where the sharks were being fed, was a very low probability. You have to ask: “What self respecting apex predator would want to be around a bunch of noisy open circuit divers?” The answer it seemed to me was a very old decrepit deaf hammerhead and then that would probably be a fluke. So that meant in all probability I would have to be on a dive where the shop feed the hammerheads in order to get them to come in close enough to photograph. That determination, limited the shops that I could dive with to one in Bimini. As sometimes happens, one of my friends Michelle, with DXDivers was running a trip out to Bimini to dive at the Big Game Club with Neal Watson’s shop. So I signed up for the trip and talked David, one of my dive buddies into joining me.

So, before my trip I started by looking at images that had been taken in Bimini. What I noticed was that where available the camera settings reflected the images had been shot on 16mm fish eye lenses. Having shot a 16mm lens for several years it occurred to me that it is a great lens if you can get close to the subject, but not so great if you could not get reasonably close. It also occurred to me that it was probably a bad idea to swim towards a shark that was feeding.

A few years ago I had added to my lens collection a 16-35 f4 zoom lens. The optical characterisitics of the lens I think are quite impressive because it renders a good rectilinear image as long as there is a good amount of light. I had shot the lens behind a 9 inch Zen dome and the optical characteristics were quite good. Given that I thought there was a pretty good chance that the sharks might be a ways away from me when peak action occurred, I opted to bring along the 16-35mm lens and the Zen dome. Now the down side of the Zen dome is that it’s enormous, and weighs several pounds. It also requires a substantial extension tube. My camera rig without the Zen dome weighs in at about 35 pounds. The Zen dome with extension tube adds another 3 pounds or so but also changes substantially the buoyancy characteristics of my rig. And it takes up about almost a third of my dive bag. So now I had to think about what portion of my usual gear was I going to leave home?

In general the images that my review founds that I liked had been shot on full fame DSLR cameras. The ISO’s had been set at between 100 and 400. The fstops used had been between f7 and f14. I also noted that the shutter speed tended to be in the range of 1/200th to 1/250th of a second. The vast majority of the images appeared to have been shot with flash, although for most of the images I could not determine what flash unit or units had been used.

What I could not tell from the images that I reviewed was the relative depth that the shots were taken, but I could see that most were taken where the sharks were swimming over the white sand that is common in the Bahamas. My guess was that the water depth was about 30 feet. As it turned out my guess was pretty close, 26 feet on one dive and 24 on the other.

I next considered strategies for getting sharp focus of the hammerheads as they came in to feed. What I have noticed from other efforts at “shooting sharks” was that they are fast for underwater animals, and their movements seemed to me to be somewhat unpredictable. So It seemed to me that what I wanted to do was be able to use was three D tracking and to try to get focus on the eye as best I could. With some sharks I had noticed it was hard just keeping them in the frame if they were moving quickly. As one of my friends video demonstrates hammerheads are very fast in the water. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZ5mYuFAt5y/?utm_medium=copy_link

It also occurred to me that continuous focus mode might help, but the limiting factor was that underwater strobes only recycle so fast. To try to help save the strobes, I used a relatively low manual strobe power so that if I shot more than one image at a time there was at least some hope that the strobe would fire a second and maybe a third time before recycling.

I also decided I would take a somewhat different approach to shooting the sharks. In most of the images I saw the angle of the shot placed the shark alone over the sand, with few if any divers in any shot. It seemed to me that the reality was that because the sharks were coming in to be fed there were divers who should be included in the shot along with the feeder.

Coming at you

It wasn’t until I was mid-way through the first dive that it occurred to me that the story really was the interaction between the feeders and the sharks. No it is not ballet, nor is it a bull fight because hopefully everyone goes home with the same number of bits that they came to the feed with. Instead, it is a delicate effort to respect the sharks while at the same time demonstrate the pure power and strength that the Hammerheads have that have allowed them to survive millions of years as apex predators.

Surely you are not going to miss that fish treat?

Walking the shark after lunch
Open wide
You had your treat now carry on

So were the actual dives somewhat like what I expected? I would say so, but like vacations, you still have to go and see for yourself in order to enjoy them.

Have you been to the Cistern dive site in BVI?

Megan exploring Cistern Point
Megan exploring Cistern Point

The first dive we did in British Virgin Islands (“BVI”) in 2018 was at the  Cistern point off of Cooper island. We dropped down behind the boat and swam to the mooring line.  We dropped to the bottom which was at 27 feet at the mooring ball.  The area around the mooring ball was mostly sand. It looked like the cat. 5 hurricane last year had beaten up most of the hard coral. But the hard coral is slowing making a come back.

The soft corals are ok, but a bit sparse. It was a sunny day to start, but later in the dive the sun started to go behind the clouds, meaning that I had to turn up the strobes a bit .  I found quite a few large lobsters in various overhangs. They looked to be in the 5 + pound range.

Megan diving with lobster
diver with lobster

There were several dips in the ocean floor. I dropped down to see the various animals hiding in the hole in the reef. The fish seem to be making a bit of a come back. We saw several scrawled file fish. I saw one queen trigger fish.  I saw quite a few box fish and one adult barracuda.  We saw three large tarpon near a cave mouth. Inside the cave were some silversides and there were two lion fish hunting the silversides.

Later in the dives we got reasonably close to the tarpon.

Three tarpon swimming over the reef
Three tarpon swimming over the reef; its actually 15 feet of fish:  3 X 5 foot tarpon

Late in the dive we found a turtle. I took quite a few shots of him and got a few with my daughter Megan in the picture.

Megan and the turtle
Megan and the turtle

Near the end of the dive we found one spotted moray who was pretty well hidden.

At the end of the dive an eagle ray that was easily 6 ft across came through the site. He was missing a tail.

A large eagle ray swimming away from us

I swam hard for both the turtle and the eagle ray.  The turtle wasn’t too hard to catch.   The ray was pretty fast and it was hard to get close to him.

I was a bit tired after the dive since the swim back to the boat was through some surge and the wind had picked up and was blowing us away from the boat.

The new housing and strobes worked well. I took over 200 images on the one hour long dive. Maximum depth was 42 feet. Viz was maybe 50-60 feet, less at the beginning and end of the dive. Better in the middle of the dive.

Wanna go to Thailand? you should

After making a 10 day exploratory trip to Thailand I can say, I sure hope I get to go back.  Here is what I learned from the trip. 

  1.     If you can break the flights into multi-day segments, do so.   What did I do:  I flew Dallas to Doha, Qatar (about a 15 hour segment) Doha to Phuket, Thailand, (6+ hours) with a multi-hour layover in Qatar.  Even though all the segments were on 777’s, flying 20+ hours is just a beating.   I hope next time I can break the trip up into somewhat more manageable segments.  Dallas to Hawaii, after a couple of days in Hawaii to …. (you get the point, hop skip and jump style flying). 
  2. If you fly the trip all at once, get a day room when you land.  I did and I was very glad to be able to sleep 5 hours and then go find the sail boat I would live on for 10 days.  Oh and having a pool at the day room was good too since after all of that flying I needed a way to stretch out the muscles that had been cramped up in those airplane seats.  
  3. Thai food is awesome.  Every meal I had was great.  Now many of the meals I had were on the catamaran, but the meals I had on shore were also great and ridiculously inexpensive.  Try finding a restaurant in the U.S. where you can get a main course and a drink for $6 U.S. at dinner.  Do be careful, the Thai’s like their food spicy so get the tourist version of the meal at least until you figure out how spicy you like it.   
  4. After flying as long as you have to in order to get to Thailand, get a Thai massage.  Compared to  what you would pay in the U.S. they are very reasonable.  $400 baht or as of this writing about $12 U.S. 

    porcelain crab fishing for dinner
    porcelain crab fishing for dinner   

    5.  If you are an underwater photographer, plan on shooting more macro than wide angle.  From Phuket where I got on the boat, until we had sailed down to Phi Phi island,  the water reminded me of the Platte river in Nebraska; too thick to drink to thin to plow.  We did not do any diving for the first couple of days of the trip because the water visibility was too poor.  Diving would have resembled the Helen Keller diving school, you see with your hands and not with your eyes.  That said there was plenty to see topside.   

    Koh Hong
    Koh Hong

    6. If all you shoot underwater is macro, you are going to miss some great wide angle shots.  If you think about it for a moment, you will probably realize that the abundance of particulate in the water is food to fish.  And, yes we did see some amazing schools of fish on quite a few of the dive sites.  So if all you shot was macro, you may have missed shooting the enormous fish aggregations.  

There were three divers on the other side of this school of fish.  I couldn’t see them, can you? Now I could swim through the school of fish to find them, but I think I’ll take a shot or two before I do so.  

7. The long tail boats (see the first picture above) are everywhere and you do need to be careful where you surface.  Near Phuket the long tails are powered by what looks like an old chevy engine. 

long tail boat
long tail boat

The engine is attached to about an 8 foot transmission with a propeller at the end.  That system allows the long tails to operate in very shallow water with a draft of about a foot. 

For divers long tails can be bad, because if you get hit by the prop you will look like a frog in a blender.  Not a pretty sight.  As we got further from Phukett the long tail boat engines were smaller so that towards the end of the trip they were running with what looked and sounded like lawn mower engines, but even those engines could deliver a lethal blow to an unsuspecting diver.   We surfaced as a group and made sure we had our smb’s deployed during the safety stop.  

8.  Be ready for current.  Cozumel Mexico has current, for the most it part goes one direction.  The Cozumel  port authority shuts down diving if the current gets too fast or the weather gets too bad.   The water around Thailand has current; its fast and it doesn’t necessarily go in one direction on any given dive.  There is no port authority monitoring it.  Early in the trip we anchored the boat, threw out the tag line and the pool was open.  One of the guests jumped in with a noodle and before he came up he had reached the end of a 50 foot tag line.   We moved the boat and got out of that current.   So watch the current it can be fast.  Dive with locals who know the local currents.  

Those are the big points I learned from the trip.  More on the dive sites later… 

 

Hurray it’s shark week again

Grey reef shark
Grey reef shark swimming overhead

In my opinion, apex predators are very interesting.  From what I have observed they are curious and will investigate what they think might be food.  If there is food in the water they will take an easy meal.  

This is why you wear the suit-
This is why you wear the suit

Sharks unlike people do not have hands which might otherwise allow them to tactically check out potential meals.   So what do they do, they taste potential entres with their mouths.  Now that might seem bad, it can have a bad effect on anyone the shark chooses to sample.  

Grey reef shark at shark junction
Grey reef shark at shark junction

So I keep thinking they sure are interesting but I ill try to avoid becoming a meal,  

 

So what is it like to dive in Anguilla?

Black Margots hugging the hull of the MV Commerce
Black Margots hugging the hull of the MV Commerce

Imagine this: clear blue warm water.  Loads of fish, and a wreck or two to explore.  Sounds great, it is.  

We sailed a catamaran into Anguilla and tied off in a small bay waiting to go diving the next day.  Where we moored was near a small mini wall so we got out of the boat with our snorkels and explored the mini-wall.  There were a lot of fish, mostly sergeant majors, but some puffer fish and few grunts.   I was feeling lazy so I didn’t take the camera.  I figured I would wait until the next day to rig it and used it for the dives we would do the next day. 

In Anguilla they require that you use a local dive shop to lead the dives.  They say that it is required in order to make sure the divers don’t abuse the reef.  I suspect it is really more about keeping the local economy working.  

Sponge and coral growth on the hull of the MV Commerce

Nevertheless, we the following morning our dive guide arrived and we then went diving on the MV Commerce.   The Commerce had been sunk about 20 years before as a purposefully sunk ship.  It was a cargo ship before its sinking.  It was in relatively good shape for having been down as long as it had, but there were places where the hull had rusted away and there were many places where sponges and coral had grown over the hull.  As we were diving I noticed a turtle swimming over head and he appeared to be swimming to the bow of the wreck.  

MV Commerce with turtle

I wasn’t quite sure where he went after he crested the top of the ship so I keep exploring the wreck slowly making my way towards the bow of the ship.  

The bow of the MV Commerce Anguilla

After rounding the bow, I began swimming down the port side of the hull.  It was there I found the same turtle.  He looked like he was about the take a nap.  So as not to disturb him, I made sure that my approach was down below the top of the hull.  I estimated about how far down the hull I would have to swim and then I popped over the hull with my camera and took his picture.  

Turtle on DeckI got off only one picture before he swam away.  Sometimes it pays to be stealthy. 

Have you ever been diving in St. Martin?

Exploring turtle reef

Its been a while since I was last in St. Martin, or  St. Marteen if you prefer.  It is not a place that many divers go, but it is a place that attracts a lot of yachts and super-yachts.  We were there sailing on a catamaran that was part of the Trade winds fleet.  One of my favorite dive sites on St. Martin was a place called turtle reef.  Now if you look on most maps of the island you will not find a dive site called turtle reef.  We dove with a shop called Octopus diving.  They picked us up at our boat which was anchored in Grand Cass.  They were well prepared and whisked us off to the diver sites for the days diving.  

1t-dive-29-of-40

We did not have far to go. I had not even finished kitting up before we were there. The buoy marking the dive site was not much bigger than a plastic coke bottle. You would probably only find the site if you knew the gps coordinates.  After our briefing, Keith and I were ready to get in and see what the site had to offer.  

Our expectations were high that we would see a turtle.  Viz was pretty good and the site was basically a small pinnacle that rose from the surrounding depths to within 15 feet of the surface.  It was a sunny day with lots of light.  The site was full of fish life.  There were grunts galore, but for much of the dive, no turtles.  

An amazing amount of fish life

 

But towards the end of the dive the dive master spotted a turtle heading to the pinnacle from much deeper blue water.  It was a rather large hawksbill turtle and he was not at all concerned about the presence of a couple of divers. 

Hawks bill turtle grazing on sponges
Hawks bill turtle grazing on sponges

Would I go back to turtle reef?  Of course, any day you get to dive with turtles is a good day.  

Do you have a favorite crustacean?

The shell of this fellow was easily a foot across
Channel clinging crab

According to my critters book the crustaceans in the Caribbean can be divided into shrimp, lobsters and crabs. Now assuming we are just talking about seeing these critters underwater, I tend to find the variety of crabs to be the most interesting. Now that is not to say that I do not find the various lobsters to be interesting, its just the variety of crabs seems to be more diverse and that is interesting to me. There are about 45 varieties of crabs in the Caribbean. The largest of which tend to be the channel clinging crabs. I have seen them on quite a few dives in Belize, Mexico, Cayman islands and Dominica. That is not to say they do not live elsewhere in the Caribbean, they do. I just have not had the opportunity to see them.

Now, it seems to me that hermit crabs are the most common crabs I have seen. I have seen them on just about every island or islet I have visited. There appear to be about 11 varieties of hermit crab in the Caribbean, and they range in size from tiny to enormous.

a polkadotted hermit crab
An enormous claw for a polkadotted hermit crab

When I was in Cayman Brac this year, while I was diving on a night dive I looked up under a part of a coral ledge and found a plumed hairy crab. He was very shy and very quickly after I got a shot or two of him he crawled back into his hiding hole in the reef.

plumed hairy crab
plumed hairy crab

Arrow crabs almost always make me laugh because they remind me of daddy long legs, but when they are hunting if they are very successful, they stick their prey on top of their heads and just keep hunting.

arrow crab hunting for dinner
arrow crab hunting for dinner

For me, some of the most productive dives for finding crabs, have been night dives. I guess that is not surprising since that is usually when crustaceans hunt for food. Inasmuch as it looks like I still have about 30 varieties of crab to see, I am going to have to do alot more night dives. 🙂

Do divers have an obligation to help conserve the environment?

A 200 plus pound Black Grouper at Shark Junction
A 200 plus pound Black Grouper at Shark Junction in the Bahamas

I used to think of the ocean as endless and its fish life as unaffected by people.  I was wrong on both counts.  Yes, over 70% of the earth is covered in water.  Yes, if you were to take the average depth of the ocean and take out the lows and the highs the average depth would be over 4,000 feet deep, or at least so I have read.

But, the ocean that can be explored by recreational divers is only 130 feet deep.  And, within that depth in many places, fisherman have and are over fishing many species. Many variety of grouper, such as black grouper are becoming much rarer to see in large part because they do taste good.  For the most part I have stopped eating grouper because of the pressure on them.  Other species of fish are also being fished to extinction.

Isn’t it odd, that lion fish, an invasive species in the Caribbean are thriving and doing so at the expense of native fish such as the parrot fish who is necessary to reefs in order to keep algae at bay.

Are you the scourge of the Caribbean?
Are you the scourge of the Caribbean?

So I will continue to eat lion fish, in hopes that someone will figure out how to eradicate them from the Caribbean, and avoid grouper in hopes that they will make a recovery.  And, I will continue to bring up trash when I see it in the ocean in hopes that by removing it some small part of the wild life that remains in the sea will be there the next time I return.  Its an enormous task in reality.  I hope you will join me in my small little effort to save the sea.

Do you ever grow tired of seeing turtles underwater? nah

I am not sure what it is about turtles that always fascinates me when I am diving. Sometimes it strikes me that turtles remind me of grumpy old men swimming under water. I guess I can relate to that. Other times I am amazed at just how quickly they can swim and leave me in the dust, even when I am wearing fins.

Some dives are just magical

Over the years, I have seen hawksbill turtles, green sea turtles, Ridley’s turtles and even a leather back turtle.  I was amazed when we were sailing to see an enormous leather back turtle surface directly in front of our catamaran.  I had no idea that a turtle that probably weighed half a ton could immediately dive down with seemingly very little effort and at a speed that took it out of the center of our catamaran.

 

I especially like to see sunlight reflected off the shells of green sea turtles because their shells reflect so many colors. So here is to the turtle, I tip my hat so to speak.

Have you ever seen an electric ray?

This fellow reminded me of sleeping on a hammock
This fellow reminded me of sleeping on a hammock

I have been diving for quite some time and have done hundreds of dives in blue water.  And yet, it was only recently that I came across an electric ray.  Not an electric eel, but an electric ray.  According to my fish book they are uncommon to rare in the northern part of Caribbean such as in the Bahamas and Florida.  They are more common in the southern Caribbean.  They tend to be unconcerned and won’t move when approached by divers, but if touched can produce a mild electric shock of between 14 and 37 volts.

From doing a little research it appears there are over 60 species of rays world wide, but far fewer are electric. The electric ray I found was what is known as a lesser electric ray.  I looked, but the could not find a “greater electric ray”;  who says naming protocols are logical?

The better known electric ray is the Torpedo fish. The really odd part is that the ancient Greeks used electric rays to numb the pain of childbirth and operations. In his dialogue Meno, Plato has the character Meno accuse Socrates of “stunning” people with his puzzling questions, in a manner similar to the way the torpedo fish stuns with electricity. Scribonius Largus, a Roman physician, recorded the use of torpedo fish for treatment of headaches and gout in his Compositiones Medicae of 46 AD.

I think I’m glad I can quite happily stop by the local pharmacy and find my choice of aspirin or other pain relievers.  Which brings me to my next rumination?  Is there such a thing as finding too many interesting creatures under the sea?  That is, is there a point where there is too much of a good thing?  I think it is kind of like asking can you take too many vacations?  Not  a chance….

Where are the turtles? Tobago Caye of course

In the Grenadines, the government has created a marine park in and around Tobago Cayes.  Although the park is not particularly large, it is well placed.  The marine park is bounded by several small islands and the depth of the water in much of the park is relatively shallow.  With  shallow water and a white sand bottom, this creates some amazingly pretty turquoises water.

Sailing in to Tobago Cayes with just a hint of the turquoises water that we will see
Sailing in to Tobago Cayes with just a hint of the turquoises water that we will see

We had barely had time to anchor and we spotted several green sea turtles surfacing for air, only to return to the bottom to feed on turtle grass. We arrived in the afternoon and after lunch we were picked up by a local dive shot to go diving.

I did two dives with a macro set up.  The first dive was horseshoe reef.  With alot of newby divers we had some challenges, particularly since the current changed twice in about a half an hour.  I did manage to get a few interesting critter shots.

This banded shrimp almost reminded me of an old west gun fighter with her guns drawn; I guess you could call her "Two guns". I say her, because I think if you look closely you can see eggs.
This banded shrimp almost reminded me of an old west gun fighter with her guns drawn; I guess you could call her “Two guns”. I say her, because I think if you look closely you can see eggs.

After the second dive I switched the camera to a wide angle set up for the next morning when we would go to the marine park looking for green sea turtles.

If you have to anchor somewhere, Tobago Cayes is pretty spectacular
If you have to anchor somewhere, Tobago Cayes is pretty spectacular

Unfortunately, no diving was allowed near the island where the turtles were, but on snorkel we were successful in finding sea turtles with which to swim.  Below is a video from our swimming with green sea turtles at Tobago Cayes.

Have you been to Littlehails Laird?

Grunts under elk horn coral
Grunts under elk horn coral

As a dive site, Littlehails laird has an abundance of marine life.  There were quite  few grunts of various species.  But while it is know for a variety of grunts we were fortunate to see a turtle swim through the site within minutes of getting to the bottom.  Like most hawksbill turtles he reminded me of a grumpy old man.  In my mind I could hear him saying:  ‘oh bother another diver trying to follow me, quick I will show him I can out swim him in a matter of moments.”  And, of course he was right, but not before I shot about a thirty second video climp of him swimming over the reef.

Moments later, a gray reef shark swam by as if to say welcome to the reef.  I did not manage to get the video light on before he had disappeared over the reef.  It must be nice to go up in down in the water column without worrying if you have exceeded a maximum ascent rate.  In something under 10 seconds he had gone up and back down 30 feet in the water column.  It must be nice to be able to do that.  Divers are limited to 30 feet up in a minute.  So there is no way of safely trying to follow a shark, we can just wait for them to make another pass.   Sometimes they do, sometimes they don’t, but the anticipation is what makes it fun– at least for me.  I’m usually thinking, is there a way to position my self so that if the shark or turtle or other wildlife that has just passed me will come back just to see me, at least out of curiousity.