Tag Archives: Belize

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Is it better than scraps?

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Sometimes when we are diving we find things that catch our eyes but yet, the conditions are less than ideal. Other times we go on a trip where we expect to see one or more particular animals, yet they just don’t show up. Is the thrill of getting to see one or more rare or unusual animals what keeps us diving? Maybe, but there is probably more to it than that.

About seven years ago I had a trip planned that would allow me to go to a location that has a high probability of seeing manatees. With my usual luck it snowed so hard that the flights would not go from Dallas to Florida so that trip like many of late, wound up on the scrape heap.

This year we traveled to Placentia Belize and while it is unusual to see manatees in Belize it is at least possible. We had been sailing for a week and had not seen any manatees. Now we had seen quite a bit of wildlife, but we had not found a single manatee even though we had been in some relatively good environmental conditions to spot them. We saw dolphins. We saw turtles.

And sometimes we could get pretty close to the animals.

We saw sharks.

We saw quite good variety of tropical fish and other marine life.

But no manatees. I had all but given up hope of spotting any. We got to the last day of sailing and cruised into a small island. The water visibility was pretty poor. I think I was the only one to get into the water to snorkel. We had long since burned up all of our air tanks so I was relegated to snorkeling. I took my underwater camera and left the strobes off because I figured they would just light up all the particulate in the water. I had been in the water over an hour and had seen a few interesting critters, but nothing particularly interesting. I think I had taken maybe 3 or 4 shots with the rest of time just looking for anything interesting. The reef went pretty much up to the shoreline and I had started from the boat and I swam more or less towards the island. There were a couple of small dogs on shore that would periodically bark at me. I guess they just wanted to let me know they were there. I had swum the length of the island (it was small) when the reef pretty much petered out and I found myself over mostly turtle grass. There wasn’t even any self respecting turtle grazing on the turtle grass. I was about to turn around and head to the boat when I saw movement in the water. It was maybe 25 meters away so I swam toward it. As I swam the water got murkier and murkier. And after a few seconds it occurred to me what I was looking at through the murk…

Yep, it was that long hoped for manatee. So I kicked hard to try to get closer. Unfortunately, he heard me. With a tail flip or two he was out of range.

Oh well, I guess I will have to find another one….

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Have you been to the “bad lands” in Belize?

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Those dark spots are the reef reaching up to grab the boat

Belize is about the size of Massachusetts, so we are not talking about a large land mass, at least for someone from Texas. Belize is lucky because off it’s coast is the second largest reef system in the world. The Meso American reef stretches the entire length of the coast of Belize and carries over to the Riviera Maya in Mexico to the north, and down to Honduras to the south.

There are quite a few islands off the coast of the mainland. Perhaps the most famous islands include San Pedro, and Caye Cauker. What becomes obvious if you fly into Placencia, is that there are quite a few islands not far from the mainland. Many of the islands and islets have interesting names such as Ray Caye, South Caye, Silk Caye ect. Some are have houses or other buildings on them. Some are not much more than a palm tree or two and maybe a mangrove tree or two. But sandwiched among a number of the islands is an area that from a sailing perspective is a fairly difficult area to navigate. In the “bad lands” the water tends to be shallow, and the reef is not particularly well charted.

Ten years ago when we first sailed into the bad lands with a very capable South African captain, he told me that he really watched his gps chart constantly because he did not want to run aground. He explained and it became pretty obvious fairly quickly that the reef was very shallow and rose and fell without a lot of warning. Our captain 10 years ago followed exactly the same track on each trip, just so he would not run aground. Ten years later we sailed with a Belizean captain. Captain David knew the bad lands like the back of his hand, but still he was careful to watch the shadows in the water to make sure the reef did not reach up and grab our boat.

But because the bad lands are pretty shallow they make an excellent place to go snorkeling.

Are the bad lands deep enough to dive, perhaps, but they are probably better just to snorkel and save our gas for a part of the reef that is not so shallow.

Belize, wide angle

Have you been to the Hol chan Marine reserve?

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Black Margot in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve
Black Margot in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve

The Hol Chan Marine reserve in Belize is relatively well known among divers. It is near San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. The dive is not deep. Much of the reserve is less than 20 feet deep. The deepest spot I found during our dives was just over 30 feet.

On Abergris Caye the barrier reef is relatively close to the shoreline, in many places it is less than 800 yards from shore. While the reef forms a substantial barrier that protects Ambergris Caye there are “cuts” or divides in the reef where the Caribbean can wash through and boats can get out beyond the reef by sailing through the “cut”. In the Hol Chan marine reserve there is a “cut” which allows the Caribbean to flow through the reef. One of the things that the flow of water does is allow food to move through the cut. As a result of the movement of the water through the cut the amount and variety of marine life in the reserve is substantial. It is common to see large numbers of nurse sharks. It is common to see turtles and large schools of fish.

There is a wide variety of corals including one of my favorite corals, elk horn coral.

Grunts under elk horn coral in the Hol Chan Marine reserve
Grunts under elk horn coral in the Hol Chan Marine reserve

And, if you are lucky, you will find turtles both hawks bill and green sea turtles hanging out and eating turtle grass in the reserve.

 

 

 

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What’s as blind as a bat, and will bite where its at? That’s a moray!

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In the Caribbean, there are 15 or so kinds of moray eel. Based on my antidotal observation, the green moray is the most common. Green moral eels tend to grow larger than their cousins so perhaps their ability to grow larger gives them an advantage in the wild. Based on my personal observation around the Caribbean, the spotted moray is the second most common moray eel to see.

green moray

Here is an example of a spotted moray eel. spotted moray eel

Ordinarily, moray eels are relatively unaffected by the presence of divers. Quite often divers can get relatively close to moray eels before the eel will withdraw into the reef to avoid contact with a diver, but not always.

As I approached this moray eel he withdrew into the reef leaving the banded shrimp who had previously been cleaning the eel.
As I approached the eel withdrew into the reef leaving the banded shrimp who had previously been cleaning the eel.

Sometimes during the daytime, eels will only peer out of their hiding holes in the reef and you have to be fairly alert to spot them. Green moray peeking out of the reef

Sometimes if you are very fortunate you will see a moray eel freely swimming about the reef. Generally speaking, you are more likely to see a free swimming moray eel during a night dive when they are hunting for food than you are during the day.

The relationship between divers and eels does change if there is food that is present or the eel believes that there may be food available. When food is present, the moray can become much more interested in the food than anything else. We were diving in Belize on the Turneffe reef when I saw a moray become much more interested in food than anything else. Our dive leader had speared a lion fish and were swimming along a wall when a moray caught the sent of the dead lion fish which was still on the spear. Here is how that interaction played out. Nevertheless some moray eel have no interest in lion fish as food even when dead.

Sometimes even if the feeding by has not occurred by humans for quite a long time, a moray eel will continue to look for a free meal. occasionally, the interaction between divers and an eel can be almost comical. Unfortunately, feeding wild animals can change their behavior. That applies not just to moray eels but to other animals as well.

Nevertheless, getting to see a free swimming moray eel, particularly in the day time, is quite a treat. And, while they are technically fish, moray eels are quite different from most fish that you see in the ocean.

Here is a short clip of some moray eels I have seen recently.