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Have you been to Silk Caye?

You are here for a cleaning I presume? Asked the blue head wrasse to the nurse shark




Not long ago I visited Silke Caye which is south of Placencia in Belize. I had been to Silke Caye about a decade ago and when I dove there then the wind was howling and the water was pretty stirred up so underwater photography was a real challenge. This time Hurricane “Grace” had gone by to the north, but had still managed to stir up the water. Nevertheless, we still went diving. We had a warm day, but the trip out was basically windless and the water was glassy calm. We got out to Silke Caye and received the obligatory briefing from the park ranger about where you can go and where you can’t go within the park. After the briefing the snorkelers stayed on the island of silk caye to snorkel. Calling it an island is probably an exaggeration because it is so small it only has three palm trees and a single camp style toilet.

Meanwhile the divers got back in the boat and we motored out from the island maybe another couple hundred yards to a wall where we did our first dive. We back-rolled off the boat and started down. If you have been to Belize you are probably aware that the segment of the Meso American reef which runs by Belize tends to have a lot of soft corals which include sea fans and and sea whips. Yes, there are hard corals, but oftentimes they are surrounded by the soft corals.

Soft corals are abundant on the Belizean portion of the Meso American Reef


One thing I noticed after a while was that there seemed to be a substantial decrease in the numbers of native fish stock on the dive. There were squirrel fish who were pretty well ensconced in the holes in the reef. But, what I did not see were the large numbers of grunts, snappers and other smaller reef fish such as blue chromis. We did find several lion fish which we speared . We also saw several nurse sharks one of who followed out group for much of the dive.

Squirrel fish swimming over the reef



When we first came across the nurse shark, I thought well if we get one pass we will be pretty lucky. Well fortunately I was wrong. We would swim a ways and he would circle back to check us out. He tended to swim right through the group of divers. So I began dropping down to the level of the soft corals and positioned myself so he would swim right to me. In all he made maybe a dozen passes during the dive. Sometimes he would turn just as he got to my camera. A couple of times he swam under me.

A nurse shark cruising over the soft corals
Now you are getting up close and personal
And yet another close pass

So at least on the first couple of dives we saw a lot of nurse sharks and soft corals but not as many native species of fish.

Soft corals abound in the Belizean portion of the Meso American reef

You are hear for a cleaning I presume

When can I go back to Anilao?

In diving I have noticed that some places just have more interesting stuff to see. Sure There are a lot of places that have quite a bit of critter diversity. But I have seen very few places that have the bio diversity that exist in Anilao in the Philippines. Granted most of the critters are not much bigger than a U.S. quarter, but there sure a lot of differences that exist.

The critters run the gamut from nudibranchs to crabs, to shrimp to fish and of course there are a variety of octopi.

Some of the critters remind me of something you might find from outer space.

Others are almost comical in how they adorn themselves with various bits and bobs.

And you can also find the occasional blue ring octopus in a clam shell.

Ever notice the diversity of crabs?

Crazy decorations on a decorator crab

I’ve always thought that crabs were pretty interesting creatures. Six legs — walk in any direction and have a hard shell to protect them. Not too bad. Maybe I am imagining it but they seem to have interesting personalities.

When I think about it, I think I have seen more crabs at night or under poor light than I have under bright sunny conditions. I guess that is probably pretty telling.

Given the diversity of crabs I think I will keep my eyes open to see more crabs that I have not previously seen.

Trying to get back!

Aiar Ghelber on Rebreather with Maria on open circuit in Cozumel

With the pandemic of 2020, last year was the longest surface interval I’ve had in a long time. It’s been hard not getting back to blue water for so long because for me it provides a opportunity to get away from the office and to explore an environment that is completely different. There are so many things to see in the deep blue sea, and yet it is relatively quiet. Of course on a good day you can hear the fish feeding on algae on the reef. Unfortunately, Dallas is nowhere near any blue water. Although diving in some local lakes did provide some opportunity to see some aquatic life in 20202, the variety of marine life in Texas lakes pales by comparison with almost any blue water I’ve ever seen.

When the opportunity came to dive Cozumel in February 2021, I jumped at it. Thank you Gulf Coast Scuba for inviting me to join the trip and bring my rebreather and my camera. Thank you for making all of the arrangements with the local dive shop Deep Exposure who made sure we had sorb, tanks and boosted 02 and made sure we saw a variety of dive sites.

We had a very capable group of divers on the trip most of whom were open circuit divers, but three of us dove rebreather‘s.

Mike and Maria exploring the reef on a sunny day

Here are my general observations of the trip. First Cozumel like most dive communities around the world, has been hit pretty hard by the pandemic. Although Cozumel may have started opening up over six months ago, Cozumel at this time has nowhere near the crowds of people who typically travel there to dive.

Second, the locals seem to be doing a pretty good job at trying to keep Covid under control. There was lots of hand “tequila” and masks were used indoors, but less so outside.

Third, the reefs look to be in pretty good shape because there hasn’t been a lot of diving pressure on them for about a year. There was nowhere near the crowd of divers on the reef today. It was nothing like what I recalled from years past.

School master and grunt hiding under a sponge

Diving my Hollis prism rebreather on the reef was challenging and exciting. As usual in Cozumel the current was moving pretty quickly. It was not uncommon to have 2 plus knots of current to drift long the walls. Since several of our dives were in the 80 minute range we covered a lot of reef in each dive.

As long as you were not headed into the current the rebreather was fine. The few places where we had to cut across the current even though it was for just a short distance it was very challenging.

But, the thing that was most fascinating to me was how close we could get to the fish and aquatic life while on the rebreathers. Open circuit divers could not even begin to approach how close we could get. We had quite a few turtles practically swim right up to us and we had fish that were so close we could have petted them if we wanted to.

Silver sailor fish hiding under sponges

Another challenge, the underwater camera housing, lights, etc that I dive with act like a sail in the current. Even though the camera system is almost neutrally bouyant it’s bulk was still a pretty good challenge to handle.

We did have some technical challenges. Before leaving on the trip I had replaced all three sensors for my rebreather. I tested them in the pool. They were fine. I got to Cozumel they failed. I would’ve been cooked had it not been for the one of the co-owners of Gulf Coast scuba, Aiar Ghelber who came up with three new sensors for my rebreather. I think in the future I will probably travel with 3 backup sensors, just to be on the safe side.

Trying to get the camera in position to take pictures that looked like something was not an easy endeavor based on the current. In fact, it was exhausting. But ultimately I did get a few shots that I like.

So is it time to go back to Cozumel? Well I might wait a week or two to catch up at work, but hopefully reasonably soon I will be back.

Sun ball over the reef

Thankfully 2020 is almost over

Well 2020 has been a tough year in so many ways. Lock downs, quarantines and more. But the forced pause has made me remember that I am thankful for so many people and relationships in my life. So hopefully in 2021 we will get to travel, get to see friends and family, and get to go diving in all of the places we missed in 2020.

I’ve been told by people who have been back in the water that some of the sea creatures that we have not seen for a while have made a comeback because of the lack of presence by people. Well I hope that is right because then there is hope that the sea can make a recovery over time.

So my hope is that when we get to go back to diving in the deep blue sea that we all see and appreciate the wonderful sea life that is there.

Happy Thanksgiving!